Tuesday March 12th, 22.6mi (8.2mi approach trail+ 14.4 AT)

Amicalola Falls Visitor center to Justus creek campsite (14.4)

I woke up at 7:15am, and it was still dark. This is a strange part of the Eastern time zone. I packed up quietly, and headed over to the ranger office to check-in for the hike. They opened at 8am, and there were 5 or 6 other hikers waiting as well. The Georgia chapter of the ATC does a great job, part of the check-in process is a presentation on LNT (leave no trace), and safety in the backcountry. Then, each hiker gets a photo, and a number. I’m hiker #838 this year! And since Bob and I are both hams, my photo is… different.

Hikers also get their pack weighed, mine is 34lbs. Too much food and candy!

After the check-in, time to walk! The approach trail is 8miles long, and starts with the iconic arch.

It is a cold morning, but nice weather. Good thing it starts out with hundreds of stairs to get warmed up!

I see a few other hikers along the way, including this guy from Maine, he is hiking home!

I get to Springer mountain, the official start of the AT, at noon and have lunch. There are 6 other hikers there too.

The first (of many) white blazes!

Then, I head down the mountain, and after a mile the trail crosses a USFS road, which is a popular trailhead. There are more Georgia ATC volunteers there too. They have heaps of good advice for water, camping, and of course more LNT.

I hike on, and it’s a warm day now, and on a nice trail. I don’t even have to get my feet wet at stream crossings! This is so different from the Te Araroa…

I stop at Long creek falls and have a snack. There is a family there, and the little boy keeps asking where my hiking poles are (I don’t use them). He even offers to make me one. 🙂

I continue on a few more hours, passing probably a dozen more hikers. Most people starting out do 8-10 miles per day, so I probably won’t see them again.

I get to Justus creek at 6pm, and call it a day. There are 7 other hikers camped here, mostly on the lower terrace. We have dinner and hang our food bags. It’s such a change camping in bear territory!

Monday March 11th, 0mi

Atlanta Airport to Amicalola Falls Visitor center (GA)

Here we go! I landed at Atlanta Airport this morning, arriving on a redeye flight from Las Vegas (Gobble’s parents got married!). I took the MARTA train to Sandy Springs, and resupplied at the Publix (grocery store down here).

There was also a Chick-fil-A, thrift store and REI nearby, which was perfect.

I had arranged a ride to Amicalola Falls with Ron’s AT shuttles, and he picked me up at 3pm. We then picked up another hiker, and we were on our way! There was some traffic, so we arrived just after 5pm. I opted to stay at the shelter near the ranger station, and do the check-in and registration in the morning.

There are a few other thru-hikers staying here too- Nick & Jenna from Minnesota, a guy from Brooklyn, and a Virginia woman who recently retired from the military. They are all too excited to sleep… but I’m gonna pass out after this long day!

Day 115: Wednesday February 27th, 20.5mi/33.0km

Riverton Holiday Park (2929.7/29m) to Tuatara Backpackers Hostel, Invercargill (2962.7/10m)

Achille is hiking separately with his dad today, so the rest of us (Kuba, Kacka, and me) hike out from the Holiday park together. We get a pretty late start at 8:30am, and after 30 minutes we leave the streets and enter the beach. It starts off as a nice beach walk, which is promising, because we have 22km on the beach today.

An hour later, some dark clouds start to move in, and the wind increases. It’s not cold, but with the wind, it feels much colder.

The precipitation starts, so we all stop to add waterproof layers to our backpacks and bodies. 

A few minutes later, the rain and hail starts to fall. It’s not much rain, but the wind is blowing it so hard that our legs are soaked pretty quickly. And the force of the rain/hail kinda hurts! 

An hour later, the rain stops, and the sun even tries to come out. But it’s still very windy, which the patterns in the blowing sand show:

We are very cold and don’t want to stop walking, but eventually hunger takes over, and we take advantage of a sheltered spot in some tall beach grasses. The sun is out, so it feels slightly warmer too.

After 22km, we finally leave the cold, windy Oreti Beach. Our map shows a restaurant up ahead, about 2km down the paved road. We walk quickly with excitement (and to stay warm), and stop for a 2nd lunch at the Cabbage Tree Restaurant. It’s pretty fancy and expensive, but they let us in and we order some hot drinks and food. After an hour of eating and warming up, we leave and roadwalk the final 6km to Invercargill. We walk to the Tuatara Backpackers Hostel, which is the closest lodging to the trail. We book bunks for two nights, since we will walk to Bluff (the finish!) tomorrow, and then hitchhike back here for the 2nd night. The rest of the evening is a blur, I think I walked over to Pak’n’Save, a warehouse-style grocery chain. After a dinner out, I’m back at the hostel at 9pm and asleep at 10pm.

 

Day 116: Thursday February 28th, 21.1mi/33.9km

Tuatara Backpackers Hostel, Invercargill (2962.7/10m) to Stirling Point, Bluff (2996.6/7m)

We hike out just after 8am, and weave our way thru downtown Invercargill for 2km.  We rejoin the TA on the west side of town, near the Waihopai River. The first 3km of the route are beautiful, on the Invercargill estuary Walkway, which is an elevated walkway thru tidal marshes. 

The trail stays near the water, but of course ventures thru cow pastures. It’s not a day on the TA without cows!

We hike thru farmland for 8km, and then take a quick break just before we re-join the road. The first 11km of today were on hike/bike paths, but the final 23km are a roadwalk, mostly on SH1. We keep ourselves entertained by the various local wildlife though!

The entrance to the town of Bluff is marked by the characteristic huge letters. Some nice tourists took our photo, but didn’t have very good accuracy, ha!

Roadwalkin’.  Bluff is the southernmost town on the South Island.

There is a cafe/cinema in town where all TA hikers stop to sign a giant map of the trail. It was a quirky little cafe, museum, and cinema all in one (now called “Oyster Allsorts”). There was a short film about the “Aurora Australis”, (the Southern lights) but we didn’t stay to watch it. Achille signing his name on the wall:

It ain’t easy being cheezy…

We hiked out of the cafe, and 20 minutes later arrived at Stirling Point, the southern terminus of the TA. It has one of those neat directional signs to some global major cities.

I barely had the arm strength to make this pose! 

I love climbing things.

Then we staged a bunch of ridiculous photos too.  Almost made it!

Kacka and Kuba posing with our celebratory watermelon and champagne. Yes, the watermelons are tiny in NZ (and very expensive).

We went in to the nearby Lands’ End B&B, where they give out finisher medals to TA hikers, so cool! We ordered a drink and sat outside, since we probably didn’t smell great. It was getting later in the day, so we walked back down the road to hitchhike to Invercargill. Since it’s a dead-end road, there was little traffic, but eventually a guy in a minivan picked us up. We arrived back in Invercargill at 6pm and had dinner with Achille and his father.  We discussed some of the more memorable days on the trail, and had a good time reminiscing. It feels so weird to be done with this trail!  But I’m not done hiking in NZ yet, I have another week in the country and a few small side-trips planned!

Day 110: Friday February 22nd, 21.9mi/35.2km

Te Anau YHA Hostel/Princhester Road (2762.7/211m) to Lower Wairaki Hut (2797.9/482m)

I get up at 6am, and quietly leave to go get breakfast across town. I quickly eat a mini apple pie, carrot cake, and hot chocolate, and return to the hostel to pack up. I meet the bus at 6:55am, and it drops us off at 7:45am at Princhester Road. The “us” is because there are two other Southbound hikers! We walk together for the 6km road section, and I take a quick break with them at the Lower Princhester Hut. 

I say good-bye and take off, going up and back down the saddle at a pretty quick pace, despite the mud. It’s a nice trail when it’s in the forest, but the tussock sections are slow and wet.

I have a lunch break at a rocky outcropping, but it’s kinda cold and windy so I only stay for 30 minutes.

I get to the Aparima hut at 3pm and have a snack indoors….there are sooo many sandflies outside! After another 3 hours/13km of mostly pleasant forest walking, I arrive at Lower Wairaki Hut at 6pm.

Apparently, I’m the only person here! I spread out and dry out my gear, and make dinner. I spend a couple hours reading a book, and the always-entertaining Hut logbook!

I was awake so early, so it’s easy to fall asleep by 9pm.

 

Day 111: Saturday February 23rd, 21.6mi/34.7km

Lower Wairaki Hut (2797.9/482m) to Birchwood Station Cabin (2832.6/110m)

I get up at 6:45am, and pack up with my headlamp on – it stays dark so late these days! It’s cold, and I hike with my vest and beanie on for the big climb (up to 1000m elevation). The trail markers have encouraging messages!

It’s pretty windy up top, so I don’t linger for the views, and hurry down the hill.

It’s an easy jog down the hill, adn I arrive at the Telford campsite at 9:45am. No one is there, so I continue onto the Mt. Linton Station farm. It’s nice walking on farm roads and 4wd tracks all morning, with pleasant weather.

I stop for a couple quick snacks, but the sandflies are terrible!

At noon I have a half-lunch, and I get some cellphone service – Kuba and Kacka are only 1km ahead of me! Right after lunch, I pass a Northbound girl who confirms this. The farm roads are easy walking and surprisingly scenic.

Hi cows!

Eventually I catch up to Kuba and Kacka at 3pm, we walk an hour to the road. A few hundred meters off the main road is Birchwood cabin, which is privately owned by a local resident. It’s $20 which seems like a fantastic bargain since it’s warm, dry, and spacious. We arrive pretty early at 4:30pm, which is perfect because it starts raining a few minutes later. We enjoy some beers around the fireplace, and listen to the hard rain outside. We swap stories over dinner, and also get to know the other hut guests. After all that socialization, and shopping for gear for the AT, I’m finally in bed at 11:30pm.

 

Day 112: Sunday February 24th, 16.9mi/27.2km

Birchwood Station Cabin (2832.6/110m) to Merriview Hut (2859.8/87m)

We purposely get a late start, since we know we have a short hiking day. I wake up at 7am, lounge around, shower, and we leave at 8:45am. The first 5km is on country roads, and it’s a quiet Sunday morning.

It’s still cold, and we move quickly up the hill. It’s only a 300m climb, but it warms us up nicely! Then we join a nice dirt road, and this sign makes me smile.

The three of us pass the older Kiwi couple, who are stopped and looking at birds. We continue onwards, and it’s a nice easy walk down the hill, and we have lunch just before the paved road. It’s cold and windy out, but we find a sheltered spot in the sun. It’s a fast lunch, since the clouds start to sprinkle a little bit. We walk a road, then a nice forest road for 4km.

We arrive to the Merriview Cabin at 3:15pm, and Achille is there! Yay! We hang out and chat all afternoon, and the Kiwi couple and a Northbound hiker show up too, but they camp outside. There are a bunch of hikers staying here, it feels like a small party!

We all have dinner together at 7pm, and I’m in bed much earlier tonight at 9pm.

 

Day 113: Monday February 25th, 22.1mi/35.5km

Merriview Hut (2859.8/87m) to Campsite by Old Machinery (2895.3/168m)

All 5 of us in the cabin are awake at 6:45am, and are hiking at 7:15am.

It’s a nice sunny day, but very cold, only 5°C! And all of us (except Achille) are stubbornly wearing shorts, ha!

We warm up a little on the roadwalk, and even more so after the sun rises. The trail enters the forest, and it’s on and old 4wd track, and not muddy, so it’s pretty nice walking. We get to the top of a tussock hill, and we can see Bluff (the TA’s finish) in the distance! Cool.

The four of us (Achille, K, K, and me) have a snack break at the radio tower, but as usual it’s windy and cold, so we continue down the nice dirt road, and have an early lunch at the bottom of the descent in a sunny warm gravel quarry. After lunch, the hike starts with an easy 200m climb up a hill, which is in a dense forest.

At the top of the climb, we leave the forest and have a warm enjoyable ridgewalk with views.

Bluff is in the distance, on the peninsula behind the ocean bay:

The four of us are talking all afternoon, and we stop at the final hut on the TA, Martin’s Hut.

To our great surprise, it’s filled with trail magic!

Sodas, beers, candy, fruit! After 30 minutes of indulgence, we hike another 7km to a camp spot by some old mining machinery.

Happy Baby and Pegleg are there too! (Hikers from the USA that we met earlier). With 4 tents its a crowded little space, but we make it work. We have dinner at 7pm, and we think this will be our last dinner in the forest, since the next couple of days finish at hostels/holiday parks. I fall asleep easily at 9pm.

 

Day 114: Tuesday February 26th, 21.4mi/34.4km

Campsite by Old Machinery (2895.3/168m) to Riverton Holiday Park (2929.7/29m)

The four of us pack up quietly in the dark, for a 7:30am start. Happy Baby and Pegleg are still sleeping. It’s a nice walk in the Longwood Forest, along the Ports Water Race, an old mining ditch.

The weather starts off sprinkling for 15 minutes, then it gets dry and even sunny! Kuba and Kacka fall behind, so Ach and I chat for an hour, and the time flies by.

There are a couple options to exit the Water Race track, but we hike it to the end, and have a snack at 11:45am. K/K arrive 15 minutes later, and we all walk together the 5km roadwalk to a cafe in Colac Bay for lunch. We have burgers, salad, beer, ice cream – what a great meal! There is a short 2km of roadwalking after lunch, which has all sorts of interesting things. A smiley house:

And a Simpsons bus mural:

The beach walk after lunch is on soft gravel, which really sucks.

Soon enough, the trail leaves the terrible gravel, for the grassy bluffs above the beach.

It gets interesting when there is a fence to cross, with no gate. Climb on, Kacka!

We climb up to a lookout point, which is a surprisingly steep climb. It’s a little tourist lookout point on a 168m tall hill, with a view of Riverton Village:

On our way down to the carpark, Achille runs into his dad! He was planning on meeting his dad tomorrow to hike the last two days with him, but his dad’s flight arrived early! There were many hugs and excited words (mostly in French, so I couldn’t understand, but they sounded excited).

We all walk to the holiday park together, and Happy Baby and Pegleg are there too! There is a group dinner and beer hour, and I think we are all savoring these last few days on the Te Araroa. We keep talking excitedly about the finish, and all the memories on this trail for the past four months. I can tell no one wants it to end, but eventually we get to bed at 11pm.

Day 106: Monday February 18th, 22.4mi/36.1km

Muddy Creek Carpark (54.7/510m) to McKellar Hut (**/620m)

I get up at 7am, and pack up quickly in case it starts raining (it looks like it might). I go to the kitchen and charge my phone, then walk over to a cafe and order a hot cocoa and chicken pie…yum.

I walk back to the campground, and the shuttle picks me up with two other hikers at 9am. It drops us off at the start of the popular Routeburn Track, and I start hiking at 9:30am. There are sooo many tourists!

The Routeburn Track is beautiful though.

I stop at the Routeburn Flats hut about 7km into the hike, and get a snack while waiting out a rainshower. I hike on for another 2.5km, the views up to the Routeburn Falls hut are foggy.

I take a short break at the Routeburn Falls Hut. It’s close to 0°C, so in some spots the rain falls as snow (barely).

From here it’s all uphill to the beautiful alpine section.

There are heaps of views, even with all the clouds!

I have lunch at the Harris Saddle shelter, a cool A-frame shelter. While I’m inside with a bunch of other hikers, it stops raining (for now), so I get some photos!

I hurry down the hill and get below treeline before the next set of rainstorms arrive.

Once the storms arrive, I hike non-stop to the end of the Routeburn Track, and pass a very impressive Earland Falls along the way.

From the terminus, I turn onto the Greenstone Track, and hike for 6km in steady rain to the McKellar Hut.

I arrive at 7pm soaking wet below the waist (I have an umbrella), and dry out in the huge hut. There are only 6 other hikers here, and it’s built for probably 24 people, so spacious! I have dinner at 8pm, and pass out at 9:30pm after a very tiring day.

 

Day 107: Tuesday February 19th, 17.8mi/28.6km

McKellar Hut (**/620m) to Greenstone River (2680.3/482m) to Taipo Hut (2690.4/720m) + 18.5 Greenstone Track

I get up at 7am, and get hiking at 7:30 with my raincoat and umbrella on. Looking back at the hut:

It’s raining lightly, but steadily. It’s a nice trail and I cruise all morning without really stopping.

The valley is beautiful, and there are cows everywhere. I get to the Greenstone River crossing, which means I’m leaving the Greenstone Track and re-joining the Te Araroa! I cross on the swingbridge, and get to the nearby Greenstone Hut at noon. I take my time and enjoy lunch in a huge empty hut. I chat with the hut warden, Eli, and he has hiked the TA last year! He also fills me in on the weather forecast…

I finish my wrap and snacks, and head out 40 minutes later, just as the couple from the hut last night are arriving. I climb the easy 200m to the saddle, and then promptly get lost in swampy tussock. The GPS track is off frequently here, and I eventually learn to ignore my phone.

I arrive to Taipo Hut at 3pm, and two other guys are there on a long weekend trip. They discuss their adventures, we share some whiskey, and spend the afternoon sitting around in the sunshine. I have dinner with them at 6:30pm, we swap some more stories, and I’m in bed at 9:30pm.

 

Day 108: Wednesday February 20th, 25.4mi/40.8km

Taipo Hut (2690.4/720m) to Campsite by Mararoa swingbridge (2731.2/563m)

I get up in the dark, at 6:45am, and pack up quietly, as the other two guys are still sleeping. After I finish packing and eating breakfast, they are awake and we say good-bye. I hit the trail at 7:30am, and the first 12km to Boundary Hut are thru fields and some tussock.

Some of the stream crossings are sketchy, since it rained so much last night. I make it to Boundary Hut at 11am just in time to use the toilet, and then read the Hut logbook. I love that my friends leave me notes! (in Czech)

I continue onwards to Carey’s Hut, where I stop for a 30 minute lunch. It’s a very nice spot, right next to North Mavora Lake.

More notes from my friends!

As I’m leaving, a hiker shows up, and he passes me an hour later on the 4wd track. It’s an uneventful and relaxing afternoon, as I walk along the lake. I arrive to the trailhead and Mavora Lakes Campground a couple hours later.

There are heaps and heaps of people camping here! I cross the outlet of the lake on a long swingbridge, so fun!

It’s a beautiful day, so I keep going on the Mavora Walkway, which leads me into a cool forest – it looks like Fangorn Forest!

I enjoy the forest walk for a couple hours, then at 6pm I stop and setup camp by a swingbridge. The Mararoa River is high, so I’ll probably have to cross this bridge tomorrow morning and walk the road, since the normal track requires a river ford. 

After eating my last dinner (tomorrow is a town day!), I relax in my tent and fall asleep at 9pm.

 

Day 109: Thursday February 21st, 19.6mi/31.5km

Campsite by Mararoa swingbridge (2731.2/563m) to Te Anau YHA Hostel (2762.7/211m)

I get up early at 6:30am to the sound of sporadic raindrops! Oh no! I pack up fast, before more rain comes…it’s such a pain to pack up during rainfall. I hike across the swingbridge at 7am, and I can tell there’s no way I’d be able to ford that raging river! I walk the quiet dirt road all morning, only seeing 4-5 cars.

It starts raining at 9am, and continues until 11am. My umbrella is up all morning. It leaks a tiny bit, but still way better than no umbrella!  It’s a boring walk, and finally at 11am the rain stops, and I even have a shadow!

I get to the highway just before 1pm, and walk the 2.5km to the start of the next trail section at Princhester Road. I get a hitch from a guy who takes me halfway, then another hitch from a group in an RV. They are from Delaware – what are the odds, it’s like the smallest state in the US. They drop me off at the “entrance” to Te Anau around 2pm, and I’m greeted by an enormous takahē, which is a flightless bird found only in this part of South Island.

After a nice lunch of salad, fish, and beer, I check-in to the YHA Hostel, and lounge around until dinner. I walk to town for dinner and do my resupply shopping. After a long shower at the hostel, I’m in bed at 11pm.

Day 103: Friday February 15th, 10.9mi/17.5km

Wanaka Base Hostel (2666/289m) to Aspiring Hut (9.5/485m) + 8km Rob Roy trail

I get up at 7am, for the 8am bus to the trailhead. I didn’t sleep well, because two people cam into the room last night at 3am and unpacked – Wtf?  I walk to the bus stop and have a nice chat with a Kiwi who just sold his local home. The 2 hour bus ride is nice, and I start walking at 10am. 

Even though the Cascade-Rees Saddle track is a side-trip, I take a short side-trip from it, up to the Rob Roy glacier.

The scenery is spectacular, and it’s an easy 4km walk on a nice trail.

The 4km trail ends at a spot named “Upper Lookout”, and there certainly is plenty to see.

I see sooo many tourists on my way down. I rejoin my original track, and hike for about 15 minutes to find a nice quiet spot away from the tourists. I take a break and have lunch, and dry my tent. 

It’s a nice, flat, easy 2 hour walk up the Matukituki River valley.

And there are plenty of cows. Moo.

I arrive to the Mt. Aspiring Hut early at 2:30pm.

There is a big Dutch group there, and also 3 or 4 Israelis. I get setup in my bunk, and have a nice conversation with a German guy over dinner. The view from the dinner table is pretty sweet.

I go to bed at 9:15pm, and it’s loud in the hut – grrr. Eventually I fall asleep around 10pm.

 

Day 104: Saturday February 16th, 16.4mi/26.4km

Aspiring Hut (9.5/485m) to Shelter Rock Hut (35.9/895m)

I sleep in a bit until 7am, since everyone was so loud last night. I pack up and eat, and all the Dutch group is still sleeping – ha! I start hiking just before 8am, and it’s a nice trail in the forest.

The trail climbs up and up, somewhat steeply.

Just before treeline, I pass a group who is just breaking down their camp…at 9:30am! As I get higher, views of the Matukituki River valley (that I hiked up yesterday) appear.

And looking up the valley:

I climb very steeply another 700m above treeline. It’s so steep, that this is not a trail that I would consider hiking in the other direction.

Up in the fog, I see some cool Kea birds! They are native to the South Island of NZ, and the world’s only true alpine parrot. Quite large too, at 1kg and about 50cm long.

The trail becomes especially steep near the top part of the climb.

I get to the top of the climb at 10:30am, and then over to the Cascade Saddle at 11:30am.

What amazing views!

As I descend from the saddle, the Dart Glacier comes into view.

It’s an easy descent down to the bottom of the Dart glacier, and I pass a few hikers coming up, including a DOC ranger.

I get to the Dart Hut at 2pm, and have a very late lunch. The view from the hut is spectacular, and there is a paraglider in the distance!

I chat with a nice Kiwi couple, and an American from Rockville MD. I continue on at 3pm, climbing up to Rees Saddle (el. 1471m)

I arrive to Shelter Rock Hut just before 6pm. The Israelis are here, and I have dinner and conversation with them for awhile. I didn’t sleep well the last two nights, so I’m in bed early at 9:15pm tonight. 

 

Day 105: Sunday February 17th, 11.7mi/18.8km

Shelter Rock Hut (35.9/895m) to Muddy Creek Carpark (54.7/510m)

I get up at later 7am, since I know it’s a short 5-hour hiking day. I get dressed and move over to the kitchen building (it’s a large hut complex!), and eat breakfast while catching up on journal entries. I depart at 8am, and it’s a cold morning – I wear my red puffy coat until 9:30am!

Looking back at the hut:

There are some nice waterfalls along the way.

I don’t see anyone else all morning until 25-mile creek at 11am.

I cross the swingbridge over 25 Mile Creek, and then I see 12-15 people all at once, hiking into the park. It’s a nice warm sunny day, and the morning flies by with mostly enjoyable hiking. 

I get to the carpark at 12:45pm, a little early for my 2pm ride to town. I sit down and eat, and a guy from San Francisco chats with me for 10 minutes before he begins his hike. I entertain myself for an hour, and my arranged ride comes at 2pm. 

Another girl shows up at exactly the same time, and asks for a ride, and she comes too. We get to Glenorchy at 2:45pm, and I promptly get a campsite and lay down in the nice warm sun. 

I wander over to the general store at 5pm and get dinner, and then visit the lake. After a long shower, I’m in bed at 10pm.

Day 97: Saturday February 9th, 0mi/0km

Wanaka Lakeview Holiday Park (2575.4/291m)

I sleep in, knowing it’s a zero day. I emerge from my tent at 8:30am, and do some planning in the kitchen. I renew my campsite at the Holiday Park, which has a beautiful spot by the lake.

I walk into town to get information from the DOC iSite for a side-trip to the Cascade Saddle Track and Routeburn Track.

Achille is in town, and he messages me, and I meet him downtown and we go grocery shopping. Then we have lunch at Waterbar – pizza and beer for only $15! Amanda & Ruben show up, and we all have lunch. Achille leaves to hike another 15km to a holiday park. After lunch, Amanda & I see the movie “Free Solo” while Ruben visits with some friends.

We go shopping after the movie (I buy a new merino shirt!), and then walk back to the Holiday Park and make dinner.  I stay up late and have a 2nd shower, and finally get to bed at 11pm.

 

Day 98: Sunday February 10th, 18.5mi/29.7km

Wanaka Lakeview Holiday Park (2575.4/291m) to Highland Creek Hut (2605.1/848m)

Amanda, Ruben, and I pack up and hike out from the holiday park at 7:30am. Soon after, we get to the lake and get a photo of the famous “lonely tree”.

Then we continue our 3 hour walk along the lake on an easy path.

We have a nice break in the shade by a toilet and have salty snacks, and then continue onward. After another hour, we stop for lunch along the side of the trail, in the shade of some pine trees.

We talk to a Northbound hiker, and the Michigan girls pass us again – leapfrog! After lunch, the trail starts to climb, and I lose my group. Then, my stomach starts to hurt, alot. I’m occasionally distracted by strange sights in the forest.

I undo my hipbelt and hike uphill slowly, at least the scenery is nice.

I make it to Fern Bern hut at 3pm and take off my pack, which feels really good.

After 20 minutes, my group arrives and we all continue on. I lose them again on an uphill, and finish the climb up to Jack Hall’s Saddle (el. 1275m).

I run the downhill for fun, and I pass Zaneta (Czech girl) along the way.

I get to the hut at 5pm, and after awhile we have 12 SOBO hikers, and 1 NOBO…big crowd!

After dinner, I enjoy the sunset from the front porch.

I return inside the hut, where there is much socializing, and I go to bed at 10pm. 

 

Day 99: Monday February 11th, 19.1mi/30.7km

Highland Creek Hut (2605.1/848m) to Campsite 1.5km before Arrowtown (2635.8/602m)

I’m awake at 6:30am, and everyone else is packing up too. I chat a bit, then head out right after the Austrian couple, and the same time as Zaneta, Amanda, and Ruben. 

The trail is annoying today – it drops steeply down to a creek, then UP to a ridge, then down 500m to a creek, then up another ridge, and finally down to Roses Hut. 

Someone tried to adapt the Appalacian Trail logo for the Te Araroa trail!

I see a helicopter nearby, and run down the hill to talk to them, but they fly off a few minutes before I arrive. 

I get to Roses Hut at 10:30am to have 2nd breakfast, and read the fun Hut logbook.

After waiting 20 minutes, no one else has arrived, so I leave and climb up the next saddle – it’s kinda easy by comparison!

On the other side of the saddle, I meet a DOC crew doing trail maintenance, and we chat for 10 minutes. (The river option down below looks better and less brushy!) I get to an old mining town, Macetown, at 2pm and receive trail magic!

Fruit, pie, bread, and salad – wow! They were a very nice group, out for a walk and picnic lunch.

Eventually I pull myself away from Macetown, and hike up and over Big Hill Saddle. I’m nearing civilization, so I’m careful not to hike too far, and setup camp 1.5km before town. It’s only 5:30pm, so I have plenty of time for reading and relaxing before an early bedtime at 9pm.

 

Day 100: Tuesday February 12th, 18.8mi/30.2km

Campsite 1.5km before Arrowtown (2635.8/602m) to Queenstown Black Sheep Hostel (2666.0/321m)

I get up at 7am, and leisurely get going at 7:30am. It stopped raining a couple hours ago, but everything is still wet. I’m glad I’m that I’m only 1.5km out from town, and on a wide non-brushy trail. Within 20 minutes I arrive to a road, walking thru Arrowtown, and then a nice golf course.

After the golf course, the trail follows along a lakeshore. It’s getting hot and sunny.

I walk along a highway for 2km, skipping a longer river detour. I cross the Shotover River on a historic bridge, and 20 minutes later I see a McDonalds…milkshakes!! I take an hour to eat and plan stuff, and leave the restaurant at 1:30pm. I walk the final 6km to Queenstown and catch up to Achille, who is drying his tent. We walk in together, arriving to town at 3pm.

I check into the Black Sheep Hostel, shower, nap, and then meet Achille for dinner at the famous FergBurger.

After dinner we watch the street performers….

…and the sunset.

We grab some beers and fresh crepes from nearby food cart, and enjoy the walk thru town.

A pretty solid day! I walk back to the hostel and go to bed at 10pm, suddenly not feeling well.

 

Day 101: Wednesday February 13th, 0mi/0km

Queenstown Black Sheep Hostel (2666.0/321m) to Queenstown Base Hostel (2666.0/321m)

I woke up feeling like crap, and laid in bed until 9am. I packed up and checked out at 10am, and wandered to downtown. I sat on nice bench by a church for almost 2 hours, distracting myself on my phone. I walk over to Base Hostel at noon, and they allow me to store my packpack in a locker, and sit in the TV lounge for a couple of hours. At 2pm I could officially check-in, so I did, and laid in bed for 3 hours – bleh. At 5pm I get a message from Achille, so I meet the three of them for dinner, even though I don’t feel like eating anything. 

I order a ginger ale at the bar, then we go out for ice cream afterwards and I get a sorbet. It’s our (probably) last night together as a group, since we all have slightly different schedules for the last 2 weeks of this trail. Amanda and Ruben plan to finish on February 27th, Achille on the 28th (to meet his dad!), and I’m taking a two day side-trip over Cascade saddle, so I may not catch them at all!

We get a nice group photo and hang out by the waterfront for awhile. We finally part ways, and I’m in bed at 10pm.

 

Day 102: Thursday February 14th, 0mi/0km

Queenstown Base Hostel (2666.0/321m) to Wanaka Base Hostel (2666/289m)

I get up at 7am, to catch the 8am bus to Wanaka. It’s a 5 block walk to the bus stop, and I somehow get lost…I guess I’m still not feeling well. It’s a nice bus and a relaxing 2 hour ride, and I get to Wanaka at 10am. I go straight to the Base Hostel and store my backpack, and sit in the lounge for 2 hours on my phone planning my last two weeks in NZ. At noon, I get up and walk to Domino’s, and get cheesy bread, soda pop and pizza. I finish my meal as I’m in queue to check-in to the hostel. I get situated in my room, and lay in bed for awhile. I walk down the hall to the bathroom and take a long shower. I wander back to my spacious room – there are only 3 people in an 8-person room! I settle into bed very early, but stay awake on my phone until 11pm. It’s very loud outside.

 

Day 91: Sunday February 3rd, 26.5mi/42.6km

Lake Tekapo Holiday Park (2379.0/727m) to The Pines Campsite (2421.6/552m)

I sleep in way too late, and leave my tent at 7:30am. I hang out in the kitchen, eating and charging my devices. A Dutch biker gives me his extra fried egg! So nice of him. I pack up my tent at 9:30, and we walk back to town. At 10:45am, we finally begin today’s 42km hike, and it’s easy and flat but HOT. Within a few minutes, we walk past the dam and hydropower station.

Right after the dam begins the endless walk along the canal.

Amanda & Ruben catch me up when I take a lunch break along the canal. It’s sooo hot.

We walk on, and celebrate the 2400km mark. Soon after, we walk by a neat salmon farm.

Finally, at 5:30pm, we leave the canal and walk along a lake! Only 12km to go!

It’s finally cooling down, and it’s a nice walk along a bike path named “Alps 2 Ocean”, so there’s no car traffic! Somehow I lose Amanda & Ruben, and I get to camp at 8pm at “The Pines” campsites. There are a TON of RV’s and campervans, but it’s very nice in the trees with the other tents.

I setup in the forest, and walk down to the lake where there’s a great view of the mountains. I’m on my phone until almost 11pm, buying return flights to the US. Sleep comes quickly after that.

 

Day 92: Monday February 4th, 7.2mi/11.6km

The Pines Campsite (2421.6/552m) to Twizel Holiday Park (2433.2/471m)

I’ve slept in a bit, having been up so late the last two nights. I get walking at 8am, and it’s still cool weather. It’s a nice walk along the Alps2Ocean trail, with heaps of good views!

It gets warm as I approach town, and I arrive at 10:30am to Twizel.

Since it’s early, I have 2nd breakfast at a cafe. The food is mediocre. After the meal, I head down to FourSquare for my resupply, and meet Achille for lunch afterwards. I’m pretty excited, it has been so long since I’ve seen him – since Wellington! I eat an amazing salmon salad, and we have ice cream, and walk to the Twizel Holiday Park to camp.

I pay and setup my tent. It’s hot, so I retreat back to town, and we buy barbecue food for dinner. Back at camp, I do laundry, shower, and we make dinner. By 7pm we are enjoying our barbecue and some beers too! Life is good.

We talk and swap stories until 9pm, then I’m doing more travel planning on my phone until 11pm. 

 

Day 93: Tuesday February 5th, 23.9mi/38.5km

Twizel Holiday Park (2433.2/471m) to Freehold Creek Campsites (2471.7/1068m)

We get up at 6:30am, and pack up and head to the kitchen. After eating breakfast and charging our phones, we start hiking at 8am. We walk back thru town, and after an hour of walking we pass a salmon shop.

It’s impossible to resist visiting, and I order a bagel with salmon. We feed the fish, and it’s so entertaining.

The rest of the morning is easy and flat walking, and we catch up to Bree and Devin from Michigan. I chat with them for an hour, then make a toilet stop. I walk alone until almost lunchtime, when I catch up Achille, Ruben and Amanda, and we decide to have our lunch break at another toilet (it has a bench). 

It’s windy, and we continue on another 13km along Lake Ohau.

It’s an easy track, but kinda boring, except for a little monument to the native peoples’ history.

We pass the Michigan girls at a campsite, and keep going to a nice camp in the forest, next to Freehold Creek.

It’s only 6:15pm, which is kinda surprising given all that we’ve seen today. I have dinner at 7pm, and fall asleep by 9pm.

 

Day 94: Wednesday February 6th, 18.6mi/29.9km

Freehold Creek Campsites (2471.7/1068m) to Tin Hut (2501.6/930m)

I get up at 6:45am, and pack up quickly since it’s late. I’m hiking at 7:30am, and the other three are just behind me. It’s pretty cold and I stay warm by hiking uphill to the saddle. Looking back at Lake Ohau:

At the top, I put on my red puffy coat since it’s still cold, cloudy and windy. At 9:30am it’s finally a little warmer, and I stop for a 2nd breakfast break. Some northbound hikers pass by, and Achille catches me. We walk together the rest of the morning, stopping for lunch at a sunny spot.

It’s finally getting warm, so I take off my coat, and hike in only the fleece vest. We are gradually approaching the Ahuriri River, it’s been in view for a couple hours.

At 2pm, we ford the Ahuriri River, the biggest unbridged river on the TA (this doesn’t include the “hazard zones” of the Rakaia & Rangitata Rivers).  The crossing goes smoothly, and the water is only just above knee-deep. Achille and I walk together, following a small river upstream for a couple hours. 

We arrive to Tin Hut at 5pm, and Amanda & Ruben arrive an hour later. John (Aussie) is already at the hut, so we have 5 people – perfect! We all talk and make jokes for 2 hours, and have dinner at 7pm. Some of the others stay awake and chat, I’m in bed at 9:15pm.

 

Day 95: Thursday February 7th, 23.4mi/37.6km

Tin Hut (2501.6/930m) to Pakituhi Hut (2539.2/1333m)

I woke up at 6:45am, and I slept sooo good! What a nice, quiet hut.

I leave at 7:30, right after Amanda & Ruben, and Achille is a few minutes behind me.

I pass them on the climb, and we all gather at Martha Saddle.

We take some photos for the 2500km marker, have some snacks, and then depart at 9:30am.

I stay with the group for 30 minutes, then I have fun charging down the hill. There’s a cool rock arrangment next to the trail!

I stop at Top Timaru Hut for an early lunch at 11:30am, and leave by noon. I pass the three of them having lunch at a trail junction 20 minutes later. The rest of the afternoon is on a sidle-trail along (and in) the Timaru River.

At least there is interesting scenery to distract me. Like tightly switchbacked trails. And waterfalls!

After 3.5 hours of that annoying slanty trail, I climb steeply 2km to Stody Hut. I take a 10 minute break, then continue up the more gradual climb.

I see John (Aussie) again, amazing timing! I get to Breast Hill at 6:30pm, which has spectacular views of Lake Hawea.

I run down to Pakituhi Hut, passing some friendly sheep along the way.

I arrive at 7:15pm, and the hut is very full with 13 people, and three of us end up sleeping on the floor. 

 

Day 96: Friday February 8th, 22.5mi/36.2km

Pakituhi Hut (2539.2/1333m) to Wanaka Lakeview Holiday Park (2575.4/291m)

I woke up from the floor of the hut at 6:30am, after I hear a couple of other hikers getting up. John, Andrew, and I pack up (we slept on the floor) and I get walking at 7:15am.

It’s a punishing descent of 900m over 4km down to the road, but the views are amazing!

It’s a nice morning walk along lake Hawea, and I stop for 2nd breakfast at 9:30am. I buy a breakfast pie and milkshake, and get a free soda pop! (someone paid for a soda for the next 4 TA hikers!). After 45 minutes, I resume hiking, and it’s hot now.  The walk along the Hawea River is beautiful, and I’m able to space out and relax. I also get to witness people trying to surf the standing wave in the river.

I get to a small town and order a $9 fish & chips special, with a beer.

Ha!

It’s so hot outside. The final walk along the Clutha River feels long, it’s hot, and there is alot of biker traffic.

Along the way, I get to see a wedding, and meet a guy who hiked the PCT over 3 years. The rest of the walk along Wanaka Lake is nice, and I arrive at the Wanaka Lakeview Holiday Park at 5pm. As I’m making my dinner in the kitchen, I see some familiar faces. Sarah and Mike are friends from Boston, who are on their honeymoon visiting NZ! What a coincidence we would be at the same holiday park on the same day!

I finish my dinner, and the three of us get ice cream and walk around downtown Wanaka. I eventually get to bed at 11pm.

Day 86: Tuesday January 29th, 15.6mi/25.1km

Lake Coleridge Village (2235.0/375m) to Clent Hills Saddle (2260.1/1480m)

Stu is not a morning person, so we don’t get up until 7:30am, and he isn’t awake until after 8am. Ugh…late day. After a nice breakfast, he is moving slowly and is very chatty. We finally leave at 9:30am, and get to town at 10:15am. I do my resupply in 18 minutes, and we are back in the car at 10:45am. A few more delays (gas, coffee), and then we are driving up a slow dirt road to the trailhead. It’s even slower with the occasional sheep blockade!

Stu drops us off at the trailhead at noon, and we finally hit the trail at 12:15pm. We are all a little frustrated by the slow pace of the day, but it’s nice to be hiking again. I don’t even notice that it’s hot, as we climb 500m up to Turton’s saddle. Looking ahead, towards the saddle:

Looking behind, at the Rakaia River:

We pass another Southbound hiker, he is only doing South Island. We take a short break at the top of the saddle, but there isn’t any shade so we don’t stay long. We continue down the backside, stopping briefly at the A-frame Hut, and again at Comyns Hut for snack breaks. After Comyns Hut, the trail leaves Turton’s Stream, and climbs up the Hakatere Stream. It’s a very narrow valley, so most of the time the trail is actually IN the stream. Just before 6pm, I see some northbound hikers coming our way. They look familiar! Dino DNA and Etch-a-Sketch, whom I met on the PCT in 2015, are living here in Christchurch NZ, and are hiking the South Island! Amazing coincidence.

All of us still have much more hiking to do before dark, so we only chat for a minute. Amanda, Ruben and I continue walking up the streambed, and after 2.5 hours of wet feet, we finally leave the stream. We hike thru tussock for another hour, arriving to our intended camp spot at 8pm. The view from the top of Clent Saddle (el. 1480m):

We quickly set up our tents and make dinner, since the sun has already set. I fall asleep quickly in my warm tent, in such a quiet peaceful spot.

 

Day 87: Wednesday January 30th, 21.3mi/34.3km

Clent Hills Saddle (2260.1/1480m) to Pond above Lake Clearwater (2294.4/885m)

It was a great night of sleep, and I get up in a dry (no dew!) tent at 6:30am, and hike out at 7am with Ruben and Amanda just 10 minutes behind me.

The scree trail is nice, but then the tussock trail makes a re-appearance…ugh.

Soon I get to a junction, and wait 45 minutes for the other two. I wonder if they took a detour…they’re faster hikers than I am! The trail is a nice 4wd track until our lunch spot, which is a nice sunny flat area. It’s HOT again, and I setup my umbrella for shade at the gravel parking lot and eat lunch.

The rest of the day is a roadwalk on gravel roads in the heat, then 5km on another 4wd track with no shade.

I stop at a creek for 30 minutes to cool down, and I linger long enough for the duo to catch up to me. We hike the last 5km to camp together, and arrive at 6pm. Our campsite is next to a pond, on a cliff overlooking Lake Clearwater.

It’s an amazing sunset!

We cook dinner behind their large Big Agnes tent, which blocks the wind pretty well.  After dinner, we discuss our strategy for crossing the Rangitata River (another TA hazard zone) tomorrow, and get to bed by 9:30pm.

 

Day 88: Thursday January 31st, 19.6mi/31.6km

Pond above Lake Clearwater (2294.4/885m) to Crooked Spur Hut (2314.1/1024m)

I wake up to the sound of Amanda and Ruben getting ready, and it’s 6:20am. I lay in bed for another 10 minutes, then eat breakfast inside my tent – the sandflies are back! We leave camp just after 7am, which makes me happy. I love my morning miles!

It’s an easy 10km walk on a nice trail thru fields, all the way to the Rangitata River.

Looking down on the Potts River, a tributary to the Rangitata River in the distance.

We stop for a nice shady break at a popular camp spot, and we meet two other Southbound hikers. They are waiting for “Wayne” who will give them a ride around the river this afternoon. After checking the river flow data, maps, and weather one more time, we head for the Rangitata River. A few minutes after heading out, we cross paths with a Northbound hiker who just forded the river, saying it was “simple as”. That’s encouraging! OK, off we go!

I record a GPS track from our departure point of the TA, to help us navigate to where the trail resumes again on the opposite side. The Rangitata is a braided glacial river, so it has many channels across the wide river valley. We cross each “braid” carefully.

After 3 hours and 12km, we are finished with the crossing. We stop for a late (1pm) lunch break under a bridge for shade. We walk a dirt road for a few minutes, then re-join the TA, which is named the “Bush Stream Track” in this section.

We hike up the Bush Stream for 2.5 hours, which is slow, but feels nice on a hot day.

The trail leaves Bush Stream, and we climb steeply for the last 1.5km to the hut.

We get to Crooked Spur Hut at 6pm, and just sit for awhile after the long day.

There is one other hiker in the hut, he doesn’t say much. After dinner, I’m in bed at the usual 9:30pm.

 

Day 89: Friday February 1st, 18.8mi/30.3km

Crooked Spur Hut (2314.1/1024m) to Camp Stream Hut (2344.4/1226m)

As I was going to sleep last night, a family of four showed up, so we had 8 people – a full hut! It was also very windy last night, so I didn’t sleep well with all the commotion. I got moving just after 7am, with Amanda/Ruben shortly behind me. It’s a quick hike up the first saddle at 1500m, but it was very windy all morning. I drop down the other side, the views are amazing!

The views continue further down the valley.

I get to Stone hut at 10:30am and have a quick snack break.

I depart, and 30 minutes later it starts to rain – very hard. I get to Royal Hut at 12:15pm, soaking wet from the waist down. I stay at the hut for 2 hours, drying off, eating lunch, and waiting for the storm to pass. The hut already has 10 occupants, all were very friendly.

Eventually Amanda/Ruben show up, and we all head out at 2:15pm. We hike up to Stag Saddle together, arriving at 4pm. It’s the highest point on the TA, 1925m!

Ruben and his 2300km marker!

We kinda had a yardsale of our backpacking gear…oops.

It’s an epic ridgewalk down from the saddle, my favorite on this whole trail so far. 

Amanda and Ruben coming down the ridge behind me.

Such an amazing ridgewalk, and perfect weather too! Lake Tekapo is in the distance.

We get to Camp Stream Hut at 7pm, and there are already 12 people camped there!

A couple brave hikers are staying in the hut itself, which is reported to be full of mice and spiders…no thanks.

I make dinner at 7:30pm and meet some of my fellow campers, and fall asleep at 9pm.

 

Day 90: Saturday February 2nd, 21.5mi/34.6km

Camp Stream Hut (2344.4/1226m) to Lake Tekapo Holiday Park (2379.0/727m)

I wake up early, which always seems easier with the excitement of a town day! I’m packed up quickly and hiking at 6:45am. I pass Amanda and Ruben 10 minutes later, they were camped a kilometer further down the trail. 

It’s COLD, like 6C. I have to get my feet wet in a stream crossing, which doesn’t help. Fortunately after the stream there is a 200m climb, which warms me up. The trail is in the shade for the next hour, so I hike in my red puffy coat. Finally, at 9am, the sun makes it over the mountains. 

I get passed by an American couple, they hike so fast. 

I get to the road at 10:45am, and it’s finally warm! I have a snack break at the trailhead, which has a funny sign.

Amanda & Ruben catch up to me here, and we all walk the 15km roadwalk to town. We get to Tekapo Lake at 2pm, and all the hostels and motels are full, so we reserve a campsite at a holiday park, 1km from town…ugh. I don’t like “bonus miles” in towns.

We stay in town and eat, use wi-fi, grocery shop, and eat ice cream. Ruben and I accidentally eat the entire 2L container of Hokey Pokey ice cream, oops! We finally walk to the holiday park at 7pm, make dinner, shower, and finally get to bed at 11pm. 

 

Day 83: Saturday January 26th, 13.3mi/21.4km

The Sanctuary Arthur’s Pass, via Morrison Footbridge (2163.1/751m) to Lagoon Saddle Hut (2178.8/1147m) + 5.7km road

I wake up later at 7am, knowing that the DOC office doesn’t open until 8am, where I need to pick up my food box (that I mailed to myself from Wellington). I walk down there at 8:30 and retrieve it, and also buy an ice cream, soda pop, and cheese on the walk back. I have breakfast back at the Sanctuary cabin, and take a 2nd shower too, ha! I lounge around until noon, finally hiking out at 12:30pm. It’s about an hour of roadwalking before I re-join the official TA route, and I make some phone calls to family as I’m walking.

The official TA route is another 9km of roadwalking, and I finally reach the start of the hiking trail at 4:30pm. I step onto the trail, and the soft dirt feels nice under my shoes, and it’s a nice switchbacked trail up thru a pine forest.

I climb 600m up to a ridge, where I have pretty amazing views down the Waimakariri River valley below.

I arrive to the Lagoon Saddle Hut at 6:15pm, and it’s quite a surprise, this hut is in a cool A-frame shape!

There are two other hikers at the hut, a Kiwi girl (Lis) and a German guy (?). We chat for several hours, I can tell we have similar personalities and are really enjoying each others’ company. We eat dinner together, and finally get to bed at 10pm.

 

Day 84: Sunday January 27th, 17.1mi/27.6km

Lagoon Saddle Hut (2178.8/1147m) to Harper River Camp (2206.4/530m)

I get up at 6:15am, and quietly pack up to avoid waking the other two people. I whisper goodbye to Lis, and start hiking at 6:40. It’s a surprisingly warm morning, and after 40 minutes, I catch Amanda & Ruben!

We hike together all day, taking at break at the West Harper Hut, which is gross. The swingbridge across the Harper River is fun!

We cross and re-cross the river several times.

Later, we take a lunch break next to the Harper River.

All afternoon we hike along the river, and there is no trees or shade, and it’s quite hot.

And re-crossing the river again.

The lack of trees makes for hot hiking, but it also means good views!

At lunch, we “swim” in the river, by doing river push-ups!

We continue on  the 4wd road, all the way to camp at the power station, which they’ve named “Harper River Camp”.  There’s also a funny sign near the entrance:

We get there at 4:15pm, and see two other northbound TA hikers, a French guy and a Kiwi girl. It’s hot and windy, so we walk the 1km down to the lake and go for a swim.

We have dinner together at 7pm, and talk about our plans for tomorrow for awhile, finally getting to bed at 9:30pm.

 

Day 85: Monday January 28th, 17.8mi/28.6km

Harper River Camp (2206.4/530m) to Lake Coleridge Village (2235.0/375m)

I get up early, since we have 28km to walk by 1pm. (There is a shuttle bus that *might* come then). I’m ready to go at 6:45, but we don’t start walking until 7am.

The road walk is uneventful, with only a few cars passing us all morning, and at very high speeds. These signs provide entertainment though!

The skies become clear, and at 9:30am the sun breaks out, and it’s hot again. I take a couple short breaks, but nothing too long.

At 11:30am we leave the road and do the 3k Lake Hill Track, a confusing mess of old jeep roads and poor trail.

We hike another road, and of course our bovine friends are watching us.

We arrive at the pickup spot at 1pm. There is already another hiker there, and we all wait together. The shuttle bus never arrives, and at 2:30pm the three of us head to a hitching spot. We find a map of the area, and decide that the town of Methven is our target.

A local guy named Stu drives by and offers us a place to stay, and a promise of a ride across the river the next day. We accept his very nice offer, and he shows us the mighty Rakaia River along the way.

The Rakaia River is a large braided glacial river, and is generally considered uncrossable. It is one of three “hazard zones” on the TA, where hikers have to get a ride around the river or lake. The trail resumes on the opposite riverbank.

Back at Stu’s house, we enjoy a huge dinner of burgers, salad and cake at 8pm, and then pass out by 10pm.