Sunday April 21, 22.4mi/36.0km

Brown Mountain Creek shelter (806.7) to Priest Mountain shelter (829.1) (VA)

I started walking at 7:30am, knowing that it was a longer day with much elevation gain. The day started out cold, but quickly warmed up to 65F/18C and it was perfect hiking weather. I climbed up 3000ft/900m, and then had nice views from ridges and peaks all day.There was a trail junction called Cow Camp Gap, but it was disappointing as there were no cows.When I got to Cole mountain the views were even better, since it was a Bald mountain. When I was here in 2012, it was a foggy afternoon with no views.Looking back south, at where I had just come from.The small descent to the next gap was getting nice and green, and the forest smelled like springtime.The next gap was called Hog camp Gap, and it was where we camped in 2012 during a thunderstorm. Much different today!I stopped for lunch a little while later, and then shortly after lunch I caught up to Bob and Cedar. Bob and I walked together for a bit, and stopped for a quick side trip to Spy Rock, which has good views if you scramble to the top. So, we did!The last 4 miles were uneventful, but we did enter another wilderness.We got to camp at 5pm, and Early Bird (who I met back on day 12) was already at the shelter. Cedar, Toast, and Lightfoot showed up too.It’s a fun shelter, it’s called Priest shelter (on Priest mountain), so everyone confesses their trail “sins” in the shelter journal. They were hilarious to read, and it was some good dinnertime entertainment.Priest Mountain is 4050ft high, and this will be our last time above 4000ft until Killington peak in Vermont, 900 trail miles north of here. Downhill tomorrow! Happy Easter!

Saturday April 20, 20.0mi/32.2km

Route 501/Glasgow (786.7) to Brown Mountain Creek shelter (806.7) (VA)

We got a ride from the hostel at 8am, Donna drove us the 6 miles to the trailhead, and Bob, Lightfoot and I started hiking at 8:30am. It was a colder day, but nice and sunny.Bob and Lightfoot quickly pulled ahead, and I enjoyed a slower hiking morning going up the big hill. The top of the climb had some nice views looking back down at where I had just come from.The brown river seen in the photo is the very flooded James River, after the 2in/5cm of rain we got yesterday.The trail stayed on a high ridge to the next peak, Bluff mountain. I made it to Bluff!At the summit there was also a memorial to a young child, poor kid.The descent from Bluff mountain was through a bright green forest, coming alive with spring!And then, as I crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway once again, I got really excited when I saw this.A rubbish bin! Thru hikers get really stoked on getting rid of any extra weight, and trash is easy weight to lose.

A mile later, I crossed the 800-mile marker. Progress!After another hour, I took a late lunch at a swingbridge.Bob was there taking a break too, and after lunch we hiked the last 5 miles to the shelter together. We arrived by 4pm to find Lightfoot already there, and Cedar arrived a little while later, as did Recall.

After dinner, two more hikers showed up. A German named Toast, and a US (Boston) named Speedy Gonzalez. Speedy started on March 15, and is hiker #930. I finally met a hiker who started after I did!! (and has a higher number, I’m #838). Haha, it only took 40 days. I probably won’t see him again, since he did 35 miles today to get here. It’s a nice cool night in the shelter, perfect for sleeping!

Friday April 19, 0mi/0km

Stanimal’s hostel (786.7)

Because of the incoming weather today (flood warnings, tornado watch), it was time for another zero day! There were 8 other hikers here doing the same thing, and Bob, Lightfoot, Cedar and I got a ride into the nearby town of Lexington to entertain ourselves for the day! It was a neat old city, lots of good food, and fancy old historical buildings.

As I discovered back on day 26 of my Te Araroa hike, the first stop in town should be at the cheese shop.

Cedar bought some tasty hard cheese.

And then, the Gelato shop…

After Gelato, there was talk of an ice cream shop, but it was raining hard and we just went next door to the hiking outfitter. We didn’t really need anything, but it was fun to browse. I did buy some Permethrin spray (to repel and kill ticks) for my shoes, shorts, and sit pad.

We also explored a local vegetarian restaurant, a brewery, and the ABC store for margarita ingredients.

Back at the hostel, we had margaritas, and I of course made a cake, and ice cream.

Calorie-loading complete, it’s time to get back on trail tomorrow!

Thursday April 18, 14.8mi/23.8km

Thunder Hill shelter (771.9) to Route 501/Glasgow (786.7) (VA)

Spring is here! The sun came up early and shone into the shelter, waking us up before 7am. I got on trail at 8am, and was surprised to see a scattered thunderstorm approaching.

It cleared after an hour, and it was hot and sunny for the rest of the day. There were more signs of spring along the way.

This wilderness has a funny name.

And this view was from the top of a knob, whose name can’t be put into print. Ha!

After the aforementioned knob, the trail descended 2000ft/600m to James River.

The James River, kinda visible through the trees.

I stopped and took a lunch break at a shelter, and met a nice family who plans to do the AT someday after their son is older.

Jodie, Russell, and Henry Joe, I wish you the best on your future hike!

The last 2 miles to town was a pleasant riverside walk along the James River.

And the James River footbridge is the longest footbridge on the entire AT.

Coincidentally, it’s also named after a guy whose surname is Foot!

I got to the highway at 1pm, and hitched a ride within 5 minutes, and went straight to the only restaurant in town, Scott’s Pizza. Based on the sign on the front door, this is definitely a hiker town!

And there was a random dinosaur across the street from the restaurant.

It’s a nice small town, and I walked the 5 minutes to the hostel. The weather forecast is for 2in/5cm of rain tomorrow, with heavy thunderstorms and wind, so I will take a zero day.

Wednesday April 17, 23.6mi/38.0km

Bobblets Gap shelter (748.3) to Thunder Hill shelter (771.9) (VA)

After the best night of sleep I’ve ever had in a shelter, I ate some breakfast bars and got moving. The hike back to the AT was slow and uphill. The sun was already shining up on the ridge, and the temperature hit 70F/21C quickly.

The trail criss-crossed with the Blue Ridge Parkway again a few times, with some great views.

The whole morning was hiking on a ridge with the occasional view thru the trees.

And then… down, down, downhill to Jennings creek and a trailhead parking area. It also had a swimming hole in the creek!

It looked familiar, and I realized I had been here a couple of times before, the most recent in 2012 when I hiked this section of the AT with my dad.

Then I also remembered the big climb after the creek. 3100ft/950m of uphill, here we go!

It was a nice smooth and switchbacked trail, and despite the heat I made good time. I took a long break at the huge (20-bunk) Bryant Ridge shelter.

After all afternoon of climbing, I reached the top of Apple orchard mountain at 5pm.

What a cool spot! It even has an FAA radar station, for aircraft navigation. There was only one more mile to the shelter, but the trail had more fun surprises.

A wilderness! And…

The Guillotine, a wedged rock that the trail passes under. Cool!

I arrived to the shelter at 6pm, Bob was already there, and two other section hikers were camped nearby. It’s nice to be camped up at high elevation again, nice and cool!

Tuesday April 16, 18.6mi/29.9km

Route 220/Daleville (729.7) to Bobblets Gap shelter (748.3) (VA)

I slept so well last night, and I could’ve slept forever, but there was a free breakfast downstairs, with waffles! After breakfast, I stopped by the thrift store to get a new pair of shorts, and finally hit the trail at 11:30am. It was another nice spring day.

We climbed up 1000ft/300m, and took a break at a shelter for 2nd lunch. They give these things weird names.

I saw only one other hiker all afternoon, when he stopped for a break at another shelter. Bob and I kept going, and soon came upon the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The trail parallels this scenic tourist road for the next 100 miles or so. The last hour of the day really seemed to go slowly, and we got to the shelter at 6:30pm. Unfortunately, it was another one of those “off trail” shelters which requires extra mileage.

There was one other hiker already at the shelter, a section hiker named Mickey from Germany. The three of us had dinner, or second dinner. The temperature turned cold quickly, so I retreated to my sleeping bag for the night.

Monday April 15, 26.2mi/42.2km

Route 624/Four Pines Hostel (703.9) to Route 220/Daleville (729.7) (VA) +0.4mi side trail

Most of the other hostel guests were already up when I climbed down from bed at 7am. I left at 7:45am and it was a sunny, yet cold and windy morning.

All the rain from yesterday and last night had made the creeks larger.

It was a nice pleasant ridge walk all morning, and Bob and Turbo caught me just before McAfee knob. It is the most photographed spot on the entire trail, and we definitely took a break and many more photos.

It was very windy, so we went back into the woods and hiked on. Turbo wasn’t feeling well, and he stopped at the next shelter. The next 5miles were easy ridge walking, and then we got to Tinker cliffs.

In the distance, on the right of the ridgeline, is McAfee knob where we had just come from 2 hours earlier.

It was another 8 miles to town, so we continued on down the hill.

We got to town at 5:30, and checked into the Super 8 Motel, where I had a box waiting. New shoes!

It has been 730 miles on the first pair, maybe a little too much, but they held up great. I love the New balance trail runners for these long distance trails.

We went and got dinner at a local BBQ place, then did a resupply at Kroger. I found it amusing that even the grocery store was advertising the AT.

I am now one-third of the way done with the AT!

Sunday April 14, 23.1mi/37.2km

Sarver Hollow shelter (681.2) to Route 624/Four Pines Hostel (703.9) (VA)

The weather forecast said that severe thunderstorms were arriving around 5pm, so I got going at 7:30am to make it to a hostel before then. Most of the day it rained lightly on and off, and the umbrella was always at the ready. The first three miles were on a ridge, and the trail went over these big slabby rocks. I’m sure they’re fine normally, but they’re kinda scary when wet. Wet slab isn’t fun.

At the end of the ridge was the Eastern continental divide. Water goes into the Mississippi River, or a the Atlantic.

The wet weather was really making everything turn green too.

It was a mostly uneventful day, and with the occasional rain, I took very few photos. In mid afternoon, I crossed the 700 mile marker!

And shortly after, was a rock formation called Dragons Tooth. I’m sure it has amazing views on most days, but not today.

And then… the forecasted storm started an hour early. I hurried down from the ridge, but also taking my time in steep sections like this:

I was only a mile from being done, and the trail was starting to get deep.

“I waded the entire length of the Appalachian Trail”

I arrived to the hostel just before 4pm, and it was a nice dry oasis. Four Pines Hostel was an interesting place.

Turbo showed up 10 minutes after I did, and we both went to dinner at the Homeplace restaurant. It is rated one of the top 10 restaurants on the entire trail. I agree. Chicken, beef, and ham, and 6 different sides. All unlimited!

After dinner, we went back to the hostel, and relaxed, played cards, and made desserts. We could hear the storm outside (severe thunderstorms, hail, damaging winds, tornado watch).

My feet were sore after the quick 23 miles today, but it was worth it for the dinner and to get out of the storm!

Saturday April 13, 25.3mi/40.7km

Pine Swamp shelter (656.3) to Sarver Hollow shelter (681.2) (VA) + 0.4mi side trail

I woke up at the usual time, but had a leisurely breakfast and talked with Turbo and Trail Chef for an hour. I finally got going at 9am, and it was nice weather. There were a lot of climbs today, here is the elevation profile.

At the top of the first climb, I was back in the clouds:

For most of the morning, I had my umbrella handy, as it would rain for 10-15 minutes every hour. Turbo caught me at lunch, and we hiked together for a bit.

Ever since entering Virginia, I’ve noticed these AT shields at road crossings. They are so much easier to see than the white blazes.

Later in the afternoon, the trail entered some farmland, and the sun came out.

And a few minutes later… cows! The first cows of the AT. Hi cows!On the Te Araroa, we used to say hi to the cows every day.

The trail also passed the largest oak tree on the AT today, called the Keffer Oak. It is 20feet in circumference.The backpack is for size reference.

Turbo caught up to me again as I was admiring the tree and snacking. He is fast, so as usual he got ahead quickly. This was thankfully the final climb of the day.

Once up on the ridge, I had some cool views of the surrounding ridges with the angle of the sunlight.

And some strange weird cairns that don’t seem to mark anything.

By 7pm, I arrived at the junction to the shelter. Usually, they are just 0.1miles or less from the trail. This one was far, ugh.I hiked the final 0.4 miles, and descended 200ft, which I will have to reverse tomorrow morning. Bleh. Long day!

Friday April 12, 19.3mi/31.1km

Route 100/Pearisburg (637.0) to Pine Swamp shelter (656.3) (VA)

I slept in late at the hostel, and it was a rainy, drizzly morning. I did some errands in town, then grabbed lunch at Papa’s Pizza. The meatball sub was huge!

Back at the hostel, I packed up and got a ride to trail, and I was hiking at 1pm. It had stopped raining, and the forest was so much greener now.

The trail crosses the New River, and some railroad tracks, on a bridge. Just as I was crossing the bridge, a train came! Good timing.

A few miles later, as I was climbing uphill to a ridge, I spotted a turtle slowly crossing the trail.

Many more plants are starting to bloom now. I’m not sure what these purple flowers are.

The trail crossed another dirt road, and it had some disturbing signs. They looked like old signs, so I hope the project was canceled. We really don’t need any more petroleum pipelines, especially ones that cut thru wilderness.

The trail continued to climb up to the ridge, and soon I was up inside the clouds. Still dry, but no visibility.

A few hours later, the clouds parted, and the sun came out!

So of course it was time for a snack break. This was the perfect sitting rock.

It was getting later in the day, so I hurried down the hill. There was a trail junction, for a trail that went thru West Virginia, cool!

I arrived at the shelter at 8pm, and it started raining 2 minutes later. Perfect timing again!