Friday September 25, 15.7mi/25.3km

Tuolumne Meadows (942.5/8606ft) to Marie Lakes Trail Jct (926.8/10,069ft) (CA)

I was awake at 7am, and it was very cold up here at this high elevation. I wasn’t sure when Bonus Miles and Cheshire Cat would arrive, but I figured they were camped about 6 miles away in Glen Aulin camp. Knowing that I had a couple hours to wait around, I stayed in my warm sleeping bag until almost 7:30, which is very late for me. I finally walked over to the Tuolumne General Store around 9am, and laid out a nice sunny warm rock. My two friends showed up 15 minutes later, and it was so exciting to talk to them! We had planned on getting breakfast, but the store had closed the kitchen an hour early, and we were all pretty bummed out. But, they soon had lunch items, and I bought ice cream and some snacks! We hiked out a bit after noon, and spent most of the afternoon excitedly talking about the last couple of months on the trail. As we hiked up the Lyell Canyon, we would occasionally stop for a water break as we followed the Tuolumne River upstream.

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It was a long, gradual climb up to Donahue pass, and a beautiful autumn day in the Sierra. We saw only a couple northbound (section) hikers, and one of them gave me a new trail name – “Do Over” – a reference to my repeating the trail, but now with SOBO status.

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We hit the top of Donohue Pass around 5:30pm, and took a long break after the long climb up to 11,000ft/3350m. When our break spot went into the lengthening shadows, we figured it was time to get moving again.

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The sun went down about 30 minutes later, and we ended up hiking by moonlight and headtorch for an hour to our camp spot, arriving around 7:30pm. We could have stopped earlier, but we wanted to descend off the pass to a more hospitable climate, and to set ourselves up for an easy 20-mile day into the town of Mammoth tomorrow.

Thursday September 24, 0mi/0km

When I crossed paths with my SOBO friend Bonus Miles back on PCT day 112, we talked about trying to meet up after I finished my PCT thru. Well, the timing worked out perfectly that I could join her going SOBO thru the Sierras, amazing!

I had finished the PCT 10 days ago, back on September 14th. Since then, I had gotten a ride to Vancouver, taken a bus south to Lake Tahoe, and gone on quick climbing trip to Yosemite Valley. I stayed with friends Kim and Jeremy in Tahoe for a couple days, then started making my way south to Tuolumne. It was an hour ride down to Reno, and from there I caught the popular Eastern Sierra Transit bus that makes the daily 6-hour trip down to Lone Pine. Fortunately, I was only on the bus for 3 hours, and hopped off at Lee Vining, CA. This is a popular crossroads, as the Tioga Pass road splits off from the main 395 freeway here, and there is a wonderful dining establishment nearby. The “Whoa Nellie Deli” is tucked into an unassuming Mobil gas station, but has some of the best sandwiches, chili, fish tacos, and pizza I’ve ever been served from a counter!

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I had a quick dinner, then I walked out the Tioga Pass road to try and hitch the 20 miles to Tuolumne Meadows campground. Within 20 minutes, I had a ride with a guy on the local Search & Rescue team, YOSAR. He was entertaining, and as a fellow rock climber, we shared some very relatable experiences. I setup my tent, registered with the ranger station, and had enough time to walk out to the meadows to watch the 7pm sunset.

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There was much commotion in the popular campground, and I was very excited to meet up with my friends tomorrow, but eventually I was able to fall asleep. Tomorrow, I meet up with Bonus Miles and Cheshire Cat and start hiking again!

The final days and miles!

The fact that the end of my hike is near is actually kinda scary….but not as scared as I felt about beginning the hike, way back in April!

Day 144: (Sept 11th)

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Day 145: (Sept 12th)

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Day 146: (Sept 13th)

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Day 147: (Sept 14th)

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And just like that, I’m done with my PCT hike. I started at 11am on April 6th, and finished at 11am on September 14th. It took me 5 months and 7 days to walk 2,650 PCT miles, with probably hundreds of additional bonus miles mixed in along the way. I’ll probably do a couple more posts, one summarizing all my trail stats, and the other reviewing my gear.

Back in April, I knew this would be a unique experience, and would probably change me somehow. But in no way could I have predicted what those would be. I’ve met so many amazing people- hikers, trail angels, rangers, bus drivers, trail maintainers, climbers, and even a couple pilots.

There’s nothing like hiking for 5 months between 2 imaginary lines on a map, to remind you how ridiculous life is.

And of course thank you to all my family & friends back east, that helped make this opportunity even possible for me!  Denali- see you soon!

I left from Stevens Pass on Saturday afternoon, to get in a few miles before dark. I woke up the next morning to an early season snowstorm, and the next two mornings after that to light rain/drizzle. But the weather generally was dry in the afternoons, and I was able to dry out then. Well, I guess no one really “dries out” in Washington…you just get less wet! :-p

Day 138: (Sept 5th)

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Leaving Stevens Pass
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Mountains are getting bigger again!

Day 139: (Sept 6th)

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Why is it still so dark at 8am??
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Oh, 2 inches of snow...
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Miserable, wet slushy hiking
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Washington has some crazy looking mushrooms. Kinda like the Super Mario ones

Day 140: (Sept 7th)

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Another misty wet day

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The sun is trying to come out
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I found a random locked canister
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The obligatory mileage photo. Only one more to go!
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View from Red Pass
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Must've been a powerful flood thru here!
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More flood effects
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The bridge was still functional at least
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Glacier peak is trying to show itself

Day 141: (Sept 8th)

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Another wet day in Washington
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There used to be a trail here. Its a looong jump now
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I found some enormous trees. Backpack set against the tree for scale.
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Cool glacial river. Not drinkable, but the silt feels neat on the skin

Day 142: (Sept 9th)

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Sunny dry day!
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Nice smooth trail today, no washouts or broken bridges
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Glacier peak view from Suiattle Pass
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Land of the Marmots
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Bridge in need of a tuneup
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Nice lunch break by a waterfall
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I just thought this sign was funny

Day 143: (Sept 10th)

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View from my tent...good morning!
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It was a short 4 mile walk to the Stehekin shuttle bus
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View from our lunch table
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A ham steak as a burger topping?? Yes please
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We tried to hitch a ride on the plane

The hike thru Glacier Peak wilderness was beautiful, when the weather cooperated to allow a view. It was 108 miles of hiking without seeing a road or building, I think this was the most remote section of the whole trail. I’m gonna enjoy civilization in Stehekin for a day, before I get back on trail to hike the final 81 miles!
-R

This was the week of rain. Washington normally gets less than an inch of rain in August, and we got 4-5″ of rain in the last week of the month. We were trying to be optimistic, and telling each other that the wildfires further north would surely be fixed by all the rain. And on Friday afternoon, the USFS announced that they reopened the PCT near Stehekin! So I suppose it was worth it to get a little wet. 🙂

When the clouds and fog did clear up for a few hours, the scenery was splendid. Deep gorges, alpine lakes, and even some fall colors in a state dominated by evergreen trees!

Day 130: (August 28th)

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Rainy day
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2300 miles, 350 to go!
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Autumn is coming, the shrub maples say so
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Marmots are everywhere
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PCT bridge by Mt. Rainier NP

Day 131: (August 29th)

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A very windy, and intermittently rainy, day

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Mountain lions or people?
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The scenery is nice when the rain/fog clears
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A cabin! We packed 8 hikers into it, for our only dry night this week
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Local trail angels made a sign from a Rainier beer box, and left us the beer (and cookies!)

Day 132: (August 30th)

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We hike a mile from the cabin, and found trail angels with a grill and a dry tent!
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Omelettes, burgers, hot cocoa & cider...yum
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A temporary break in the rain!
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And the rainclouds come back...

Day 133: (August 31st)

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Eerie forest in the fog
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Ski lifts always look creepy in summer

Day 134: (Sept 1st)
Zero day in Snoqualmie Pass Inn. No pictures, since my phone was drying out. And nothing photo-worthy, just hot-tubbing and eating 5000 calories!

Day 135: (Sept 2nd)

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It never rains in Washington in summer, they say....hah!
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A mile down the trail...
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The unplanned rest stops are the best
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This bird kept "leading" me down the trail
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Alpine lakes are back!

Day 136: (Sept 3rd)

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This waterfall was really loud, I think it was carrying some large rocks among all the rain runoff
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The weather can be guessed from the blue rainshell

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Day 137: (Sept 4th)

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Woke up in camp, and it wasnt raining! But there was a dusting of white stuff
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Yup, its cold. My camelbak hose had slush-water in it
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Cathedral peak
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Lots of snow up high
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This is Surprise Mtn. Seems pretty obvious to me.

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Cool reflection lake. It was also ice cold

From Stevens Pass, I went in to Skykomish for the night…its nice to be dry & warm. Plus I needed to get to the Post office to get my passport; its hard to believe Canada is only 188 miles away! 
Inside the package with my passport, my parents also included lots of wonderful treats! It’s always nice to have a variety of snacks and a taste of home (the west coast needs Wegmans)

In future hiking news, I see the mountain I intend to climb in a few years was finally conferred the official name of ‘Denali’, a name which hikers/climbers and Alaskans have always used. Yay!

Looking forward to my final week on the trail!
-Recon

I covered a large segment this week, about 150 miles. And there was so much to see– Columbia River gorge, Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, and Goat Rocks. Goat Rocks is probably my favorite day on trail so far, as its an amazing section of trail, the weather was clear, and I met many friendly local hikers, dogs, horses, and even saw some goats!

Day 124: (August 22nd)
We hiked out of Oregon and into Washington, over the iconic “Bridge of the Gods”. Its probably the most dangerous section of the entire PCT– its an old narrow bridge, and large trucks pass very close!

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Walking across Bridge of the Gods
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Washington!
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The requisite border pic
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The Columbia river gorge has some cool ferns. I wonder what their name is?

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Day 125: (August 23rd)

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It's alot less smokey today!
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Trail magic!! Who knew oreos and gatorades could be so exciting.

Day 126: (August 24th)

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Lake?!? Maybe this used to be a pond (at best), but its completely dry now. PaNW needs rain!
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Days are getting colder
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Only 450 miles to go!
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They say bigfoot lives around here
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The PCTA is using child labor to make their signs now?
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Mt Adams is getting closer

Day 127: (August 25th)

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Mt Adams. Those glaciers are noticeably smaller...
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Rainier in the distance. Highest peak in the Cascades, 14,411ft
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Because Mom likes pictures of alpine wildflowers.
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That's the milkiest creek I've ever seen.
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My favorite spring on the entire PCT. Ice cold water flows right out of a pile of lava rocks!

Day 128: (August 26th)

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Smokey day today. This is 10am, not sunrise!
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Goat rocks!
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Yup, its a ridgewalk
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Cispus creek & waterfalls
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Cairns! The small one is unique
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A snowfield?!? Well that's unexpected
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Its only dangerous if you fall over the edge. Probably 3000ft
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We are starting the "Knife edge" traverse of goat rocks
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The ridge gets kinda narrow in a few spots. Not sure how I would pass a sobo hiker here...
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Now THAT is a nice-looking bergschrund!
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My zoom sucks, those specks on the ridge are goats.
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Horses! They are riding the trail south to Mt Adams. Even the Knife Edge

Day 129: (August 27th)

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The act of posting a sign for these springs, makes the name kinda inaccurate!
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Rainier is lookin' fine!
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I'm torn...hike some bonus miles for a swim, or straight to town for ice cream??
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I can see the future...hiking across a ridge!
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Well this is a new one.
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Yup.
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Time for fried food & ice cream!

I spent the afternoon at White’s Pass, getting food, washing up, and charging my gear. After some procrastination, I got back on the trail at 6pm. Only 4 days to Snoqualmie Pass, and a week to Stevens Pass…I’m running out of trail!
-Recon

Last week in Oregon!  Lots of pictures this week, as the trail stayed mostly on ridges and avoided the “green tunnel” effect. Also the weather was nice, and there wasn’t any nearby wildfire smoke.

Day 118: (August 16th)

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Mt Jefferson at sunrise
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Getting closer...
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Its a cold morning
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A glacial creek coming down from Jefferson. The water looked like Yoohoo!

Day 119: (August 17th)

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Old school trail marker
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Typical northern Oregon trail
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An oddly grandiose trail entrance at a road crossing
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View from our (Sci-fi, NordicTrack & I) campsite at lake Timothy that night. The water was warm!

Day 120: (August 18th)

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This bridge seems waaay over engineered for pedestrians
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Bonus miles to a cool lake!
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The reflection makes it hard to see, but the lake is perfectly clear and 40ft deep!
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Yup. We need rain!
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Hikers and shenanigans go together like...bacon & sriacha
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Timberline lodge!

Day 121: (August 19th)
Ladies Man reserved a room at Timberline lodge, and 8 of us hiker-trash crowded into a 6-bunk room, with 2 on the floor. It was totally worth it, only $25/person, and included breakfast buffet, a hot tub, and laundry!

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Breakfast buffet!
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I think we spent 3 hours eating.
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Finally hit the trail around noon
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Ramona falls. Very cool detour, more bonus miles
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Crossing a raging glacial creek on a slippery log. The brittle cordelette handrail was mostly for show.
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Mt Hood in the setting sun

Day 122: (August 20th)

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Getting an early 6am start!
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....and then the fog rolls in. D'Lux leads the way
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Descending on the Eagle Creek trail into the Columbia river gorge. The vegetation is sooo different!
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Tunnel falls!
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Sci-fi leads the way behind the falls. Oregon reminds me of Ithaca.
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Bridge of the Gods!
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Welcome to Cascade Locks?
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We went to Shrek's Swamp, the home of a local trail angel

Day 123: (August 21st)
This was a zero day, to resupply food and mail it ahead to all the town stops in Washington. We also HAD to check out the Thunder Island brewery (they really expanded since last year) and the ice cream shop.

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I bought food for all of Washington, about 21 days of hiking.

Oregon was beautiful, it quite a bit flatter/easier than CA, and it was surprisingly civilized– I don’t think I went more than 48 hours between towns or trailside resorts. I expect Washington is more remote, and I’m looking forward to the last 500 miles of trail in the evergreen state!

Shelter Cove resort (near Willamette pass) has a strong “vortex”, as it sucked in many hikers for an unplanned zero day. Fortunately, for me it was a planned zero day, awaiting some friends from back home, who are also hiking on the PCT, southbound. This is where our paths would cross!

Day 112: (August 10th)

No hiking today, and not many pictures from today, too busy talking & eating ice cream with these hikers…. 🙂

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I crossed paths with some friends from home!! They are going Sobo.

Bonus Miles, Anchor, and myself. Check out her blog of her sobo thru hike – https://wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.wordpress.com

Day 113: (August 11th)

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Morning view of Odell Lake
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A VERY nice ski shelter, it had a woodstove, sleeping loft, and even coffee inside!
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There is a trail connecting the PCT directly to the city of Eugene. How cool, must be a pretty outdoors-y city.
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Three Sisters Wilderness is huge, it took me almost 3 days to hike thru.

Day 114: (August 12th)

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Real live cowboys!

Day 115: (August 13th)

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The trail leads around South Sister (10,358 ft)
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Obsidian falls. The rock is shiny & black
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Lots of obsidian rocks
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Its sooo shiny!
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Lava field, Sisters to the south in the background

Day 116: (August 14th)

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Cool cloud / fog around a mountain. Only its tip is showing!
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And 2 hours later, I'm up in that fog

Later that day, I get a ride into Bend, from a couple of very nice ladies. Its about 40 miles from the trailhead to Bend, and with the traffic in the village of Sisters, we have a couple of hours to chat. As it turned out, the driver, Margaret, used to work for the forest service as a snow ranger! So we got to discuss fun avalanche stuff! Like depth hoar, unstable slabs, and snow crystals.

After she dropped me off at the REI in Bend, I picked up some badly-needed pants (mine were full of holes and too big for my shrinking waist) and socks.

Then, because I have some very lucky timing, I was in town during Bend’s annual brewfest! 70+ craft brewers, including the best pumpkin beer and best IPA I’ve ever had!

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Hikers & locals gettin their groove on, at the annual Bend brewfest.

Day 117: (August 15th)
I picked up some groceries, and got a ride back to the trail thru a wonderful local network of trail angels, coordinated by Mr. Uber Ducky.

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Back on the trail, looking south toward Santiam pass

Next week– Cascade Locks & Bridge of the Gods! Washington, I’m-a comin!
-R

I covered many miles this week, including some unplanned bonus miles up some nearby peaks. The hot weather seems to have been left behind in Norcal, and with the flatter terrain, its easy to do 25 miles daily, with an occasional 30-mile day.
Crater Lake was a special highlight, and I spent a half day just relaxing & napping on the crater rim.

Day 104: (August 2nd)

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Cool dam on the walk to GreenSprings Inn (which had the best burger on the trail!)
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Pilot rock, popular with climbers. Its the same type of formation as Devils Tower in WY.

Day 105: (August 3rd)

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Cool forest in the background
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Getting closer...two-thirds done!
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Massive lava fields!

Day 106: (August 4th)

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Burn areas are spooky looking.

Day 107: (August 5th)

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Mile 1800!

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Hikertrash loves hanging out by the store

Day 108: (August 6th)

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Crater Lake
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This is indeed a real picture.
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Highest trail elevation in OR!
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Wizard island
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The Watchman

Day 109: (August 7th)

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Mt Thielsen from a distance
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We are almost at the summit, waiting for some roped climbers to clear the area
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View from the summit

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Summit benchmark

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Day 110: (August 8th)

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I pass this sign an hour after I get a text from my cousin Kelsey. Creepy coincidence!
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Nice view.
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Fallen tree across the trail - "Did I make a sound?"

Day 111: (August 9th)

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Diamond Peak panorama

I can’t believe Oregon is already half done! I’m waiting at Shelter Cove resort, near Willamette pass, for Kalmia & Victor to arrive tomorrow!
-Recon

This week flew by on the trail, there was much to see, and a few milestones were reached. The 4800-ft climb out of Seiad Valley was rough, but it also meant climbing up to higher elevation, cooler temps, and leaving behind the last of the poison Oak!
Several of the people who were hiking near me, I’ll probably never see again, as they are doing the “Oregon challenge”. This is hiking from CA border to WA border in 14 days, about 32 miles per day!

Day 97: (July 26th)

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Yup, its a ridgewalk
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DEEP lake, home of Nessie?

Day 98: (July 27th)

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It hailed alot last night!
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I think the bridge is out...its in 2 halves!
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Less than 1000mi to Canada!!

Day 99: (July 28th)

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Hikers love food challenges!
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Bushtit starting the pancake challenge, you get 2 hours to finish
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This horse followed me for a mile

Day 100: (July 29th)

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Hobbes & Poli leading an epic ridgewalk
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MADE IT TO OREGON!
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Made it to Oregon! No dead oxen, broken wagons, or typhoid.
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I love the metric system. Can we just switch already?

Day 101: (July 30th)

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First beer is free at Callahans! Liking Ashland already.

Day 102: (July 31st)

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My seat-mate during my hitch into downtown Ashland

Ashland was a really cool city– organic grocers, used bookstores, outdoor theater, microbreweries, and bicycles and college students everywhere. Felt like home!

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The organic grocery store had a new hybrid. And free samples!
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Picked up some reading material for the trail
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Downtown
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Many businesses put out water for dogs
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Fun!
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Random outdoor free concert
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Nightlife at the Brickroom tavern

Day 103: (August 1st)
No pictures today, had to recuperate from the evening’s activities and do town chores. More miles next week, and possibly crossing paths with Kalmia (“Bonus Miles”), my sobo friend from back home!