Friday June 14, 19.6mi/31.5km

Mizpah Hut (1853.0) to Pinkham Notch/Hwy 16 (1872.6) (NH)

We woke up at 6am, since we were sleeping in the dining room, and it was needed for breakfast. The weather looked perfect, and we headed out at 6:30am up the hill.

There were building materials along the trail, it looked like dimensional lumber. And… rocks?

The views were amazing all morning. Sometimes the clouds would shift, and we would be in a temporary fog. Cool!

And not surprisingly, there was still a little snow on the mountainside.

Mt Monroe looms above:

We stopped in for a second breakfast at Lake of the Clouds hut. As expected, they had put out the leftover food for free!

After chatting with the croo, we were back on our way up Mt Washington. It’s a developed mountain summit, with lots of towers, buildings, roads, and even a railroad.

The view looking back down to the south, over the southern presidential range :

The summit was a busy place, as usual. We even met three other NOBO AT thru-hikers hikers! They do exist!

It was cold and windy up at the summit at 6288ft/1917m, so we didn’t stay long. On the way down, we had perfect timing and got to watch the cog railway come up the hill.

All afternoon there were amazing things to look at. Like the view down into the Great Gulf wilderness:

Or these tiny white alpine flowers that only seem to grow up in high elevations:

Further north along the ridge, we crossed a short snowfield. It felt just like hiking the CDT!

The last mountain in the presidential range is Mt Madison, it’s a very pointy mountain.

The view back over the presidential range was so colorful…

And the view ahead, down the mountain was so steep:

The trail descended back into the trees, but I got a couple of last scenery photos just before.

The last few miles were in the Great Gulf wilderness, and I saw no other people or signs of civilization. So different from Mt Washington!

I arrived to Pinkham Notch visitors center at 5:30pm, and Bob’s friends picked us up and took us to their house in Conway. After a nice dinner at a Thai restaurant, we relaxed for the evening with some nice treats – ice cream, whiskey, and homemade cookies!

Thursday June 13, 17.0mi/27.4km

Zealand Summit (1836.0) to Mizpah Hut (1853.0) (NH)

We packed up camp early, knowing that an afternoon rainstorm was coming, to get as many dry miles as possible. It was an easy walk down the mountain, with lots of alpine meadows.

This trail junction seemed ridiculous.

There was an amazing view down into the Pemi Valley, with Whitewall Brook way below.

Just before we arrived at the Zealand hut, there was a nice stream with lots of fish.

We stopped for a break at the hut, and had the free leftover breakfast food, and played some card games.

The next section of trail leading to Ethan Pond was super flat and smooth, since it was built on an old railroad bed. It crossed the Whitewall slide, and we had a neat view looking back on where we had come from.

We made a quick stop at Ethan Pond for a snack, the water was yellow-ish from all the floating pine pollen.

A couple of miles later, Bob and I ran into a group from the AMC Mountain Leadership School! I took this program in 2012, it teaches hikers/Backpackers how to lead groups in the outdoors. It was great seeing these familiar faces again!

We pressed on, knowing rain was coming. After crossing the Saco river, the big climb up the Webster cliff trail began.

After gaining 2000ft/600m, we reached the cliffs and had some nice views down into the Crawford Notch.

The last hour of the hike it rained, so I didn’t get any photos. We arrived at the Mizpah Hut at 3pm, and got ourselves dry and warm again. Dinner wasn’t until 7pm, so I entertained myself in the library…

Dinner was great, lasagna with salad, peas, and chocolate cake. After dinner a local trail maintenance crew gave a fun presentation!

Bob and I helped to wash the dishes, since we were doing a “work for stay”, a special option given to thru hikers (since we don’t have reservations for the bunks). After chores, I setup my sleeping bag on the dining room benches, and they turned out the lights at 9:30pm sharp!

Wednesday June 12, 17.0mi/27.4km

Lincoln/Hwy 3 (1819.0) to Zealand Summit (1836.0) (NH)

We got up at the usual time, and Chris was making eggs and bacon for breakfast! He dropped us off at the Liberty Springs Trailhead at 8:30am, and went off to work.Bob and I waited in the parking lot for a few minutes, and Amanda drove up. We had hiked most of the Te Araroa together, and had planned a day to hike together here in New Hampshire. Old trail family reunion, awesome!We were talking the whole way up the climb to Franconia ridge, so I didn’t even notice the climb until it was over! We got some summit photos on Mt Lincoln, and continued on.Mt Lafayette is the highest on the ridge, 5259ft/1603m. We had a nice lunch break there, then Amanda took a side trail back down to her car.The descent from Mt Lafayette, which I have done probably a dozen times over the years, was expectedly steep. But I didn’t expect any snow! It was just little patches, so it was easy to walk around.We did the steep climb up to Mt Garfield, and had another nice break on the summit firetower foundation.We hiked/downclimbed the really steep descent, and stopped at Galehead hut for a drink and snack. The AMC operates eight huts in the White mountains, which are staffed in the summer. They serve breakfast and dinner, and snacks all day. The lodging is quite expensive, so most thru-hikers don’t stay the night.The final climb of the day was up the steep one mile climb up to the summit of South Twin mountain. We knocked it out quickly, and had one last summit photo for the day.When the trail wasn’t on an exposed ridge, it was in a nice pine forest all day. Perfect!We didn’t have the time to continue down to the next official campsite, so we opted to camp on the summit of Zealand mountain. It was a tree’d summit, so it’s protected from the wind and perfect for camping.We made dinner and watched the sun set over the mountains. It was a long day, even though we only covered 17 miles! This terrain is rougher and slower, so it’s to be expected. I had a great view from my tent…

Tuesday June 12, 8.9mi/14.3km

Eliza Brook shelter (1810.1) to Lincoln/Hwy 3 (1819.0) (NH)

It rained hard all thru the night, and I was enjoying being warm and dry in my sleeping bag in the shelter. We got up and out by 6:45am, to meet a friend who was picking us up at a trailhead 9 miles away. Immediately, we got our feet wet in the trail, which was beginning to merge with the nearby stream.

Even the boardwalk sections, which normally sit at least 6in/15cm above the water, were flooded. It must’ve rained a ton last night!

Near the top of the climb up to Kinsman Ridge, there was still some snow hiding in a north facing crevice. Ha!

We continued up the wet climb and reached the summit of South Kinsman at 8am.

Bob is showing off his summit dance!

The next summit of North Kinsman was only a mile away, so we kept moving along the ridge. It wasn’t raining, but we it wasn’t completely dry weather either.

After this summit was a couple miles of descent to Lonesome Lake and the nearby hut. I didn’t get any photos of this, because by this time the screen was too wet to use the camera app. Sadly, I also didn’t get any video of our epic river Ford of a raging cascade creek, or the mama moose sighting just a mile from the trailhead.

My friend Chris picked us up at Liberty Springs trailhead at 11am, and we went to town for groceries and a nice BBQ lunch. It was great catching up with him, and discussing upcoming trips. L2H (Lowest to Highest) is a 130-mile route from Death Valley to Mt Whitney, and looks amazing…. so that might happen!

But tomorrow, we will be hiking the iconic Franconia ridge!

Monday June 10, 19.0mi/30.6km

Wachipauka Pond (1791.1) to Eliza Brook shelter (1810.1) (NH)

For the first time on this trail, I was woken up by the warmth of the morning sun. It was hot inside the tent by 7am! I got this photo as I packed up. Not pictured: mosquitoes.We stopped by the Hikers Welcome hostel, Bob had a package there.I found some snacks in the hiker box, and then we were back on the trail.The climb up to Moosilauke summit is a long, gradual uphill. I’ve done this section of trail before, so there were no surprises today.Just as the trail had gotten up on the ridge, we walked over the melting remains of an old snow drift!The final mile up to Moosilauke summit is on an old carriage road, and is a beautiful flat, wide trail.I spent 30 minutes on the summit enjoying the views, as it was a rare windlesd warm day.I hiked down to Kinsman notch, stopping by a shelter and privy along the way. The privies in this DOC-maintained section all have interesting names…The descent down the Beaver Brook trail was Steep, with mostly large rocks and stairs to walk on.At the trailhead parking lot, I ran into some trail magic, and two other thru-hikers! Togs and Lucky started in Geein February.The trail magic was from Fresh Grounds, who runs the “Leapfrog Cafe” as he calls it. I ran into him back in a North Carolina forest, and it was great to see him again!The climb up out of Kinsman notch was hot and steep, and the rest of the afternoon was on rocky PUDs.But at least it was in a nice pine forest.At 6pm, I arrived at the shelter, and Bob (who I hadn’t seen all day) arrived 30 minutes later. There is some rain expected tonight, hopefully it stops by morning!

Sunday June 9, 21.8mi/35.1km

Lyme-Dorchester Road (1769.3) to Wachipauka Pond (1791.1) (NH)

I got a late start at 8am, and it was already warm. We immediately started UP on some smooth rock.

There were many good view spots today up on the ridge.

Looking south:

And since we were higher up, the pine forests are back!

This view spot gave a preview of the morning’s objective, Smarts Mountain. If you look closely, you can see a firetower on top.

The final climb up to the summit of Smarts mountain was very steep, and some places these “ladders” were installed, basically giant iron staples in the rock.

I made it to the summit at 10am, it was a slow four miles. The firetower was a nice spot to avoid the bugs, since it was windy up there.

We continued on, and a few hours later I stopped for lunch at Hexacuba shelter. Yes, the DOC had built a hexagon shaped shelter… on Cube mountain. It’s wonderfully nerdy!

And the associated toilet had a special name too, the penta-privy. Ha!

While I was there, two hikers arrived. Jim and Eric were out on a dayhike, and were giving out cokes and food to thru hikers! I don’t normally drink pop, but it was a cold refreshing drink on a hot day, and it wasn’t boring ol’ water.

The rest of the climb up to Cube mountain went quickly, and it had nice views all around.

Panorama:

I passed another privy on the way down, this one was even more entertaining than the previous one. It had a logbook, and the comments were just as ridiculous as you’d imagine. And the sign above the door…

I caught up to Bob, and at a road crossing there was a local bar, so we stopped in for a cold drink. We’ll, pitchers of Coors were only $5, so it became multiple drinks, haha.

This bar felt very typically New Hampshire… motorcycles parked out front, car racing on TV, karaoke, and moose on the lawn.

Bob got up on stage and sang “Mr Jones” by Counting Crows. And then another song. And then another…

A couple of nice folks sitting near us bought us a second pitcher of beer, so by the time we finished that, walking on a rocky, rooted trail was trickier than usual. And my photos became blurry too…

We made it to our planned camp spot by a pond at 9pm, just after sunset.

Tomorrow, we enter the White Mountains!

Saturday June 8, 19.5mi/31.4km

Hanover (1749.8) to Lyme-Dorchester Road (1769.3) (NH)

I took a leisurely morning and made a hot breakfast, and Karen gave us a ride back to town at the spot we left off at 8:30am. After a quick stop at the food co-op, we walked thru the Dartmouth baseball fields, and into the woods.It was an immediate change to dark and shady forest, which was perfect for hiking uphill. It was quite warm in the sun, around 80F/27C, so any shade was nice. Once in awhile the trail would emerge at a swamp, and it felt hot.The trail in this section is maintained by the Dartmouth Outing Club (DOC), and they have all these cool orange signs.Around lunchtime, we climbed Moose mountain. And since I love moose, I had to get a photo of this sign too.And the summit of the mountain actually had a view!A short ways down from the summit is a shelter, and I stopped for lunch there. Again, these signs are amazing pieces of artwork.Later in the afternoon, I caught up to Bob as we were climbing up to Holts Ledge, which had nice views to the east.Apparently this area is also a ski hill for the Dartmouth ski team. I haven’t sat on a ski lift in way too long, so I took a rest, haha.Ski runs have the funniest names sometimes.We continued on another three miles, and setup camp in a gravel area near a road, since there aren’t any shelters nearby, and the woods in this area are full of ticks.A couple of other hikers joined us later, and I’m enjoying this quiet spot next to a creek.

Friday June 7, 9.6mi/15.4km

West Hartford VT (1740.2) to Hanover NH (1749.8)

Despite sleeping in a bed, it was probably the worst night of sleep on the trail. So I started early, to get out of that dusty garage. Immediately we crossed under the I-89 freeway in a neat tunnel.

The trail went into the woods, and it was an enjoyable couple of hours of walking. There were no views, and I wasn’t fully awake, so I took only one photo.

Upon exiting the woods, there was a 2 mile/3km roadwalk into town. One of the mailboxes had ridiculous stickers, I laughed out loud.

I stopped at a general store for a resupply, and saw the yogurt selection. They actually had blackcurrant flavor! This was everywhere overseas but weirdly difficult to find in the US.

The remainder of the roadwalk led me over the Connecticut River, and into New Hampshire.

Hanover NH is a college town, home of Dartmouth college. And it was commencement weekend, so everywhere was really busy. And the famous cellist, Yo-Yo Ma, is the commencement speaker!

I stopped by the post office, and I picked up my new shoes. This is the last pair for this trail, there’s only 450 miles to go!

After the Post office, we called a local trail angel, and she picked us up at the library, and took us to her “hiker room” at her house. They even have a pool!

Karen and Jon were very accommodating and friendly hosts, and Bob and I had a great time swapping stories with them at dinner. What a great start to New Hampshire!

Thursday June 6, 17.3mi/27.8km

Winturri shelter (1722.9) to West Hartford (1740.2) (VT)

It rained heavily all night, finally stopping at 6am. The other two started packing up at 6am, and departed at 7:45am…a very long time. We left by 8am, and had an easy morning of downhill.

Most of the views today were from a field or meadow.

At the first road crossing there was a farm market, so we stopped for a second breakfast and got ice cream, pie, and soda pop. Then, more grassy meadows!

It was a pretty uneventful morning, and I passed only one other day hiker and her dog. At the trailhead, the info board had some artwork from a local elementary school. These are always interesting to see. It’s also in French!

Of course, after crossing the road, there were more meadows.

And in the forest, many of the trees had tubing attached to them. I’m assuming these are sap collection lines, for maple syrup.

There were also many old rock walls nearby, probably marking old property lines.

We stopped for lunch at a great spot, on a gravely patch next to the trail, sitting in the sunlight. It was one of the best lunch spots in awhile. No sitting in a dark, dirty shelter today!

After a final stretch in a forest, we came to a small village and crossed the White River.

We stopped by the library to fill our water bottles, and the librarian explained that the house next door letss hikers stay and sleep in their finished garage. It was very early, and we had only done 17 miles, but it sounded nice. So, we wandered over and the owners invited us in.

Linda and Randy offered us a soda pop and some muffins, and we chatted for a bit.

Then, back up to the garage to watch some old VHS movies on an old school TV. Mrs Doubtfire, Hook, Jumanji, Back to the Future… most of the tapes were a Robin Williams movie, haha.

After removing a wayward bird that found its way inside, I went to bed. Tomorrow, we get to New Hampshire!

Wednesday June 5, 19.9mi/32.0km

Highway 4/Rutland (1703.0) to Winturri shelter (1722.9) (VT)

The day started with a meal that was so good, it can’t simply be called breakfast. But it was morning, and there were muffins and fruit, and all sorts of egg/vegetable/rice dishes. So good!

We caught the 9:15am bus, and it dropped us off at the trail at 9:30am. We saw the forecast was predictung heavy rain for 6pm, so we got moving right away.

After a mile, we arrived at “Maine junction”, where the LT and AT diverge. The LT continues another 173 miles north to the Canadian border.

Despite what this sign says, this is a trail. They just don’t want you to follow it.

And at the same junction, we have an encouraging sign…

After a short but steep climb up, there is a view of Killington peak.

And then, a short steep descent to Kent Brook Falls.

And a quiet view over Kent Lake.

I saw a group of trail maintainers working on this section, they were all way too cheerful to be hauling heavy equipment up a hill. But I know it’s fun! Shortly after that, I came across Thundering falls. Yes, it was really loud.

After the Falls, there was a long marsh with a nice trex boardwalk.

And of course, another climb up, up, up to a high ridge. It was very damp and dark up there in a thick forest.

And then steeply down again, so steep there were ladders!

We stopped at a cabin called The Lookout, a private cabin whose owners allow hikers to spend a night there.

There was a ladder and perch built up on the roof, and the views were actually pretty good!

On a clear day, the White mountains should be visible… but today wasn’t a clear day. Weather is comin! We booked it another hour to the next shelter, and got in at 5:45pm, walking the last 10 minutes in a light rain. There were two other guys there, Badass and The Mayor, who are finishing their 2018 hike. We ate dinner and went to bed, just as the heavy rain started. Perfect timing today!