Friday June 21, 19.5mi/31.4km

Bemis Mountain shelter (1953.9) to Piazza Rock shelter (1973.4)

Happy Solstice day! The SOBO hikers in the shelter got up early, before 6am. They were quiet packing up, but since the sun rises so early, I was awake shortly after 6am. We got slowly packed up, and noticed that the rain had stopped, so we left the shelter at 7am. The first peak was the Lower Bemis Mountain, and it was completely foggy up there.

At the bottom of the descent, we had our first river Ford!

Maine is supposedly known for not having bridges, so I expect this will be the first of many. Then after a short but steep climb, we had our first real view of the day. I think these are the Rangely Lakes.

We had a road crossing, and there were dozens of stickers on the guiderail, this one was my favorite.

Maine was also living up to its reputation as a wet state, we had many sections of the boardwalks today. We also saw two SOBO (southbound) hikers, but since they weren’t wearing clothing, I didn’t take a photo.

And some of the boards weren’t in very good repair.

Today was a shift from summits to flat valleys, and we walked by many ponds and small lakes. A few even had rowboats or canoes left on the shore for anyone to use!

At the end of the day, we got a good view, and a preview into tomorrow’s climb, Saddleback mountain.

We saw 3 more SOBO thru-hikers, and again most of them were hiking in birthday suits, haha! Gotta love Solstice day hiking.

The last couple of miles were easy, and crossed a couple of streams.

Just before I got to the shelter, I passed two more SOBO hikers. So many today, I think eight total! And of course they weren’t wearing anything except backpacks and smiles. I guess SOBO thru-hikers take the Solstice day tradition seriously!

We stopped at Piazza Rock shelter for the night. I went to check out the namesake rock feature. It was huge!

It was fun to walk around inside the jumble of boulders too.

There was also an area nearby called “the caves”, so of course I explored that as well.

The privy at the shelter was ridiculous. The name..

And it was a dual-seater! Do people hold hands? Or play cribbage, using the board installed between the seats?

The caretaker, Sleepy Pete, came over and we chatted for an hour about trail, gear, life, and of course food. Tomorrow, we get to climb some 4000-footers!

Thursday June 20, 8.7mi/14.0km

Andover/S Arm Road (1945.2) to Bemis Mountain shelter (1953.9) (ME)

I’ve been on a streak of great town breakfasts here in Northern New England! We had huge pancakes with syrup (real, of course) and fresh Maine blueberries.

Then after a quick resupply trip in town, we got dropped off at the trailhead at 9am and hiked up a steep climb. It was a foggy day, with raumin expected later, so the views were nonexistent.

The summits here aren’t very high, so they have signs to mark them.

We hit two summits today, both in the fog. Rain is expected to come in the afternoon, so we didn’t linger.

The forest up here is very green and mossy.

Some of the moss (reindeer moss?) is even very fuzzy.

Bob and I arrived to the shelter at 1pm, just as rain was starting. We found two other hikers there… SOBOs! Zuzu and Gritz started a couple of weeks ago, and have also hiked the PCT. We killed time all afternoon, talking, playing games, napping, and watching the rain fall from a nice dry shelter.

Tomorrow is supposed to be nice weather, so it should be a normal mileage day.

Wednesday June 19, 18.1mi/29.1km

Baldpate shelter (1927.1) to Andover/S Arm Road (1945.2) (ME)

Bob and I left the shelter at 7:15am, and did the 1000ft/300m climb up Baldpate mountains. The first peak had a nice preview of the second Baldpate.

The walk between the two peaks was in a shallow saddle, and felt like a sidewalk!

Going up the second Baldpate was steep granite slab hiking. Photos don’t really show the steepness well.

The summit had great views in all directions!

And it was even a perfect weather day to see. It seems many hikers end up here during a foggy day, so it was fun to have good timing.

And then, a steep descent on slab rock, some of it was wet. After that, we spent all day in the forest.

At the bottom of the descent, we crossed a river, and Dunn Falls. It dropped off just a few feet below the trail’s river crossing!

And then, UP steeply to another peak, this one was wooded with only one small view.

And finally, a knee-crunching descent back down to a small river, and the road crossing where the hostel would be picking us up.

“Yukon”, the hostel owner, picked us up just before 5pm. And then it started to rain! The ride was long, and it took 30 minutes to get to town and the hostel. But it’s so cool! I’ve never slept in a geodesic done before…

The storm in the mountains.

Even the inside of the hostel was fancy.

There were 3 other NOBO hikers there, and 2 SOBO hikers. We have seven total people! I haven’t seen this many since Virginia. It was a fun night!

Tuesday June 18, 16.9mi/27.2km

NH/Maine border (1910.2) to Baldpate shelter (1927.1) (ME)

I got an early 7am start hiking, since I knew there would be a couple of extremely slow sections today. The first climb was up to the Goose peaks.

Some of the sections were steep enough to require ladders. It was fun, but I don’t understand how this trail is accessible to dogs.

Between the West Goose peak and East goose peak, there were boardwalks. For added excitement, some of the planks would sink into the mud when stepped on.

I took a break for second breakfast at a shelter. Full Goose shelter! What a great name.

Each shelter has a logbook for hikers to sign in. Someone made an entertaining cover for this book.

After the break, I descended into Mahoosuc notch, which is a mile of scrambling thru a large boulder field. It took almost an hour to cover a mile!

It was a very deep notch, so not much sunlight gets in, and it felt much colder. There was a surprising amount of snow remaining from the winter.

Some of the boulders had to be navigated by squeezing in between .

Or going underneath.

Or crawling thru…

I finally emerged on the other side of the notch, and after a very steep climb up to the Mahoosuc Arm, I stopped for lunch at a shelter on Speck pond.

The meal was good, but the mosquitoes were not. So, I got moving again, and took a 0.3mi side trail to Old Speck mountain. There is a fire tower to get a view.

On the descent from Old Speck, there was an option to take an alternate trail. Eyebrow!

I stayed on the main trail, and it was nice walking by all the waterfalls on the descent to the road.

The trailhead parking lot was empty, so I took a break and sat in the middle of it – no mosquitoes there! It also had some signs about the history and location.

After leaving the trailhead and crossing the road, there was a cool AT sign. It was huuuge, like fuccillo-sized.

The last few miles up to the shelter were a nice easy uphill, on trail that was surprisingly not rocky. Often there will be short side trails labeled “View”. This side trail was a little different, I think it was bragging.

I arrived to the shelter early, just before 5pm. I had planned to continue to the next shelter in 3mi/5km, but Bob hasn’t caught up yet. So I setup camp and had a nice relaxing afternoon and evening chatting with a couple Maine locals doing a Mahoosuc loop hike.

Monday June 17, 16.4mi/26.4km

Gorham/Hwy 2 NH (1893.8) to NH/Maine border ME (1910.2)

I slept in until 7:30am, and then went downstairs to make pancakes. But, I already had made a cake yesterday, so I ate that instead. And I had to finish my ice cream too. I watched a few episodes of “Last week tonight”, and finally left the hostel at 10am.

There was a short roadwalk, and I crossed the Androscoggin River.

Surprisingly, much of the trail today was long slab by sections of rock. And even the low summits had views!

For a couple of hours today, the trail was surrounded by these small white flowers. I don’t know their name, but they made the forest smell clean.

Along the way, there were many small alpine lakes. I think this one was called Gentian Pond. I tested the water, it was WAY too cold to swim!

This was just a funny sign. I’m still looking for the corresponding other half, “Failure trail”

And then, things got slow and steep. Steep enough to require a ladder. My pace dropped to 1.5mph, as I climbed 1200ft in a mile to the summit of Mt. Success.

Another great summit view, looking east.

Panorama photos never look as good as I hope they do…

After a couple more miles of hiking, I arrived at the Maine border! It’s the last state, and there are only 282 miles to Mt Katahdin and the finish!

It was also 6pm, so I decided to setup my tent nearby. I am camped about 20ft/6m into the state of Maine. I love their motto – “the way life should be”.

I am camped alone tonight, Bob had to wait for some new shoes to be delivered, and he will catch me tomorrow. The next few days will be rough terrain and lower mileage days. So, that combined with another zero day, and I expect to get to Baxter state park (where Mt. Katahdin is located) on July 4th!

Sunday June 16, 2.0mi/3.2km

Rattle River Shelter (1891.8) to Gorham/Hwy 2 (1893.8) (NH)

The sun rises so early these days, and it was shining directly into the shelter by 6:30 am. So I was awake before the big group that was camped nearby, and got moving by 7:15am. It was an easy cruise down a wooded trail. That, combined with the swarm of mosquitoes, and I didn’t stop to take any photos.

I got to the Rattle River hostel by 7:45am, and checked in and showered by 8am! The rest of the morning was filled with chilling at the hostel. We went into town for lunch at a BBQ place.

When we got back to the hostel (their shuttle picked us up), I had a package from my friend Aaron! So much delicious food…

Later, I baked a cake with stuff I had bought in town. The magnet on the fridge was a little too true.

Not much else exciting happened today, and that’s perfect. A relaxing nero (near-zero) day. Tomorrow… we leave New Hampshire and enter Maine!

Saturday June 15, 19.2mi/30.9km

Pinkham Notch/Hwy 16 (1872.6) to Rattle River Shelter (1891.8) (NH)

We started the day with a big breakfast, and Bill and Jill had made homemade bread too. They even had a huge (3kg) peanut butter jar… Ruben would be jealous. 🙂They dropped us off at the Pinkham Notch visitors center, and we started hiking at 9am. The trail went by Lost pond, then started the steep climb up to Wildcat mountain.Steep rocks!An hour later, we had covered the 2 mi/3km to the top. There is a ski lift here for Wildcat resort.And the views back to the Presidentials and Mt Washington were pretty spectacular too.After an hour of ridge walking, we started the steep descent into Carter Notch. You can see down to the hut, and across to our next mountain, Carter Dome.After 1000ft/300m of descent, we were at Carter Lakes and then stopped at the hut for lunch.I had one of the best trail lunches ever… a huge sandwich on homemade bread with tons of veggies.I was pretty full, so the next climb went very slowly. The top of Carter Dome was nice, with a cairn to mark the otherwise unremarkable summit.As we were descending the north face of the mountain, snow patches started appearing. It was quite surprising to see so much snow in mid June.The next summit was Mt Hight, and it felt more summit-y, with views and a prominent rock to mark the top. And Bob!Going downhill…Between the summits it is often wet and boggy. The section between Mt Haight and Mt Moriah was no exception.On the way up the climb to Moriah, I took a break at a junction to a campsite with a hilarious name. Imp!The climb up Mt Moriah was really fun, withlots of smooth slabby rock, so I could just walk right up like a ramp. It would be terrifying when wet though.Good views from the top!I had tried to hike this section back in 2015, with PCT friend Cheshire Cat. We ran out of daylight in that attempt, so it was nice to finally tag Mt. Moriah.The “descent” down from Moriah to the shelter was slow and steep, I would call it “controlled falling”. I arrived to the shelter quite late at 7pm.

There was a large group there, they were AMC youth program instructors doing a group training trip. I actually knew a couple of them! Small world. I’m looking forward to my super-nero tomorrow… only 2 miles to town!

Friday June 14, 19.6mi/31.5km

Mizpah Hut (1853.0) to Pinkham Notch/Hwy 16 (1872.6) (NH)

We woke up at 6am, since we were sleeping in the dining room, and it was needed for breakfast. The weather looked perfect, and we headed out at 6:30am up the hill.

There were building materials along the trail, it looked like dimensional lumber. And… rocks?

The views were amazing all morning. Sometimes the clouds would shift, and we would be in a temporary fog. Cool!

And not surprisingly, there was still a little snow on the mountainside.

Mt Monroe looms above:

We stopped in for a second breakfast at Lake of the Clouds hut. As expected, they had put out the leftover food for free!

After chatting with the croo, we were back on our way up Mt Washington. It’s a developed mountain summit, with lots of towers, buildings, roads, and even a railroad.

The view looking back down to the south, over the southern presidential range :

The summit was a busy place, as usual. We even met three other NOBO AT thru-hikers hikers! They do exist!

It was cold and windy up at the summit at 6288ft/1917m, so we didn’t stay long. On the way down, we had perfect timing and got to watch the cog railway come up the hill.

All afternoon there were amazing things to look at. Like the view down into the Great Gulf wilderness:

Or these tiny white alpine flowers that only seem to grow up in high elevations:

Further north along the ridge, we crossed a short snowfield. It felt just like hiking the CDT!

The last mountain in the presidential range is Mt Madison, it’s a very pointy mountain.

The view back over the presidential range was so colorful…

And the view ahead, down the mountain was so steep:

The trail descended back into the trees, but I got a couple of last scenery photos just before.

The last few miles were in the Great Gulf wilderness, and I saw no other people or signs of civilization. So different from Mt Washington!

I arrived to Pinkham Notch visitors center at 5:30pm, and Bob’s friends picked us up and took us to their house in Conway. After a nice dinner at a Thai restaurant, we relaxed for the evening with some nice treats – ice cream, whiskey, and homemade cookies!

Thursday June 13, 17.0mi/27.4km

Zealand Summit (1836.0) to Mizpah Hut (1853.0) (NH)

We packed up camp early, knowing that an afternoon rainstorm was coming, to get as many dry miles as possible. It was an easy walk down the mountain, with lots of alpine meadows.

This trail junction seemed ridiculous.

There was an amazing view down into the Pemi Valley, with Whitewall Brook way below.

Just before we arrived at the Zealand hut, there was a nice stream with lots of fish.

We stopped for a break at the hut, and had the free leftover breakfast food, and played some card games.

The next section of trail leading to Ethan Pond was super flat and smooth, since it was built on an old railroad bed. It crossed the Whitewall slide, and we had a neat view looking back on where we had come from.

We made a quick stop at Ethan Pond for a snack, the water was yellow-ish from all the floating pine pollen.

A couple of miles later, Bob and I ran into a group from the AMC Mountain Leadership School! I took this program in 2012, it teaches hikers/Backpackers how to lead groups in the outdoors. It was great seeing these familiar faces again!

We pressed on, knowing rain was coming. After crossing the Saco river, the big climb up the Webster cliff trail began.

After gaining 2000ft/600m, we reached the cliffs and had some nice views down into the Crawford Notch.

The last hour of the hike it rained, so I didn’t get any photos. We arrived at the Mizpah Hut at 3pm, and got ourselves dry and warm again. Dinner wasn’t until 7pm, so I entertained myself in the library…

Dinner was great, lasagna with salad, peas, and chocolate cake. After dinner a local trail maintenance crew gave a fun presentation!

Bob and I helped to wash the dishes, since we were doing a “work for stay”, a special option given to thru hikers (since we don’t have reservations for the bunks). After chores, I setup my sleeping bag on the dining room benches, and they turned out the lights at 9:30pm sharp!

Wednesday June 12, 17.0mi/27.4km

Lincoln/Hwy 3 (1819.0) to Zealand Summit (1836.0) (NH)

We got up at the usual time, and Chris was making eggs and bacon for breakfast! He dropped us off at the Liberty Springs Trailhead at 8:30am, and went off to work.Bob and I waited in the parking lot for a few minutes, and Amanda drove up. We had hiked most of the Te Araroa together, and had planned a day to hike together here in New Hampshire. Old trail family reunion, awesome!We were talking the whole way up the climb to Franconia ridge, so I didn’t even notice the climb until it was over! We got some summit photos on Mt Lincoln, and continued on.Mt Lafayette is the highest on the ridge, 5259ft/1603m. We had a nice lunch break there, then Amanda took a side trail back down to her car.The descent from Mt Lafayette, which I have done probably a dozen times over the years, was expectedly steep. But I didn’t expect any snow! It was just little patches, so it was easy to walk around.We did the steep climb up to Mt Garfield, and had another nice break on the summit firetower foundation.We hiked/downclimbed the really steep descent, and stopped at Galehead hut for a drink and snack. The AMC operates eight huts in the White mountains, which are staffed in the summer. They serve breakfast and dinner, and snacks all day. The lodging is quite expensive, so most thru-hikers don’t stay the night.The final climb of the day was up the steep one mile climb up to the summit of South Twin mountain. We knocked it out quickly, and had one last summit photo for the day.When the trail wasn’t on an exposed ridge, it was in a nice pine forest all day. Perfect!We didn’t have the time to continue down to the next official campsite, so we opted to camp on the summit of Zealand mountain. It was a tree’d summit, so it’s protected from the wind and perfect for camping.We made dinner and watched the sun set over the mountains. It was a long day, even though we only covered 17 miles! This terrain is rougher and slower, so it’s to be expected. I had a great view from my tent…