Wednesday April 24, 20.7mi/33.3km

Rockfish Gap/Waynesboro (863.7) to Blackrock Hut (884.4) (VA)

Wednesday April 24, 20.7mi/33.3km

Rockfish Gap/Waynesboro (863.7) to Blackrock Hut (884.4) (VA)

Lightfoot and I got a ride back to the trail from the hostel owner at 10am. The trail immediately enters Shenandoah National Park.

There was a big storm here a month ago, and there were trees down everywhere. The self registration kiosk for hikers was smashed beyond recognition. Skyline drive was even closed for 20 miles!

About a mile in, I passed by this random rock that someone has painted a message on.

It was a long struggle to get to the top of this climb, and each one after. I was feeling very tired, my ankles hurt, and I needed energy but I wasn’t hungry. The tractor seats were a nice touch on the summit though!

Every 3 or 4 miles, the trail would cross skyline drive, and there would be a view.

Apparently we must’ve been skirting some boundary line, because we entered the park… again.

I have walked by thousands of fallen logs that have been cut by trail maintenance crews. This log had a hollow center, with a giant black ratsnake living inside. That was a good way to wake up from my daze!

And of course, shenandoah is filled with too many deer, none of which are afraid of people. They just stand there in the trail.

I got to the shelter at 7pm, ate some crackers and water, and went to bed. Tomorrow will be better!

Tuesday April 23, 19.1mi/30.7km

Reeds Gap (844.6) to Rockfish Gap/Waynesboro (863.7) (VA)

We got up early for the 7am breakfast at the brewery. It was a ton of food for only $5!

One of the employees gave us a ride back to the trail at 8:30am. It was a nice sunny day to hike.

There were occasionally views, usually when the trail crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway.

From the top of Humpback mountain, the view south was pretty unusual – a ski resort in Virginia! I think it was called Wintergreen ski resort.

There was a side trail to a spot called Humback rocks, and it was totally worth the extra quarter mile.

The rest of the day was a casual descent to Rockfish Gap. The trail condition improved, and there were less rocks. And with the warm day, many more danger-noodles.

There was one stream crossing by a shelter, which was surprisingly not bridged, given its size. Rock hopping skills to the rescue!

There were a couple of random things in the final mile – an old cemetery, and a house ruins.

I got to Rockfish Gap at 3:30pm, and called a local trail angel for a ride. Waynesboro is a wonderful hiker friendly town, and the have a list at the trailhead of dozens of people who you can call for a ride.

Lightfoot showed up a few minutes later, and we rode into Waynesboro, directly to the Chinese buffet. The we did a resupply at the Kroger next door, and got a ride to Stanimal’s hostel. It was a nice place to relax. We watched movies, and I stayed up way too late. Tomorrow will be rough…

Monday April 22, 15.5mi/24.9km

Priest Mountain shelter (829.1) to Reeds Gap (844.6) (VA)

When I woke in the shelter at 7am, Early Bird and Cedar were already gone. Bob and I packed up and got moving at 7:30am. The descent down from the Priest Mountain was very rocky.

There were a couple of nice views on the way down.

We descended 3000ft/900m to the Tye River, and the river crossing had another cool swingbridge.

Then, the trail promptly climbed back up the same 3000ft/900m to another peak called Three Ridges. The morning was still cool, so it was a comfortable climb. And in another wilderness!

Halfway up the climb, there is a shortcut trail which saves about 4 miles. I didn’t see any footprints going that way.

There weren’t any views at the top of Three Ridges peak, but a mile later there was a viewpoint called Hanging Rock overlook. There were quite a few dayhikers around too.

In the trees below, you can see the green of spring creeping up the hillsides to the higher elevations. Cool!

I caught up to Cedar at the road at Reeds Gap, and we quickly got a hitch with a nice local woman. Driving a Subaru, of course! We made it down to the Devils Backbone brewery by 2pm, and had a big 2nd lunch.

Bob’s PCT friend, Shutter, also came out to visit from Charlottesville. They did the PCT together in 2017, and it was fun to hear how that trail had changed since I hiked it. Another hiker, Soulshine, also came to camp, he is doing a yo-yo on the AT this year (already hiked it once before), on his quest to be a 3x Triple crown hiker. Impressive. The 5 of us had some beers and snacks, and it was a fun chill evening. I went to bed early, there is a 7am hiker breakfast that is supposed to be legendary!

Sunday April 21, 22.4mi/36.0km

Brown Mountain Creek shelter (806.7) to Priest Mountain shelter (829.1) (VA)

I started walking at 7:30am, knowing that it was a longer day with much elevation gain. The day started out cold, but quickly warmed up to 65F/18C and it was perfect hiking weather. I climbed up 3000ft/900m, and then had nice views from ridges and peaks all day.There was a trail junction called Cow Camp Gap, but it was disappointing as there were no cows.When I got to Cole mountain the views were even better, since it was a Bald mountain. When I was here in 2012, it was a foggy afternoon with no views.Looking back south, at where I had just come from.The small descent to the next gap was getting nice and green, and the forest smelled like springtime.The next gap was called Hog camp Gap, and it was where we camped in 2012 during a thunderstorm. Much different today!I stopped for lunch a little while later, and then shortly after lunch I caught up to Bob and Cedar. Bob and I walked together for a bit, and stopped for a quick side trip to Spy Rock, which has good views if you scramble to the top. So, we did!The last 4 miles were uneventful, but we did enter another wilderness.We got to camp at 5pm, and Early Bird (who I met back on day 12) was already at the shelter. Cedar, Toast, and Lightfoot showed up too.It’s a fun shelter, it’s called Priest shelter (on Priest mountain), so everyone confesses their trail “sins” in the shelter journal. They were hilarious to read, and it was some good dinnertime entertainment.Priest Mountain is 4050ft high, and this will be our last time above 4000ft until Killington peak in Vermont, 900 trail miles north of here. Downhill tomorrow! Happy Easter!

Saturday April 20, 20.0mi/32.2km

Route 501/Glasgow (786.7) to Brown Mountain Creek shelter (806.7) (VA)

We got a ride from the hostel at 8am, Donna drove us the 6 miles to the trailhead, and Bob, Lightfoot and I started hiking at 8:30am. It was a colder day, but nice and sunny.Bob and Lightfoot quickly pulled ahead, and I enjoyed a slower hiking morning going up the big hill. The top of the climb had some nice views looking back down at where I had just come from.The brown river seen in the photo is the very flooded James River, after the 2in/5cm of rain we got yesterday.The trail stayed on a high ridge to the next peak, Bluff mountain. I made it to Bluff!At the summit there was also a memorial to a young child, poor kid.The descent from Bluff mountain was through a bright green forest, coming alive with spring!And then, as I crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway once again, I got really excited when I saw this.A rubbish bin! Thru hikers get really stoked on getting rid of any extra weight, and trash is easy weight to lose.

A mile later, I crossed the 800-mile marker. Progress!After another hour, I took a late lunch at a swingbridge.Bob was there taking a break too, and after lunch we hiked the last 5 miles to the shelter together. We arrived by 4pm to find Lightfoot already there, and Cedar arrived a little while later, as did Recall.

After dinner, two more hikers showed up. A German named Toast, and a US (Boston) named Speedy Gonzalez. Speedy started on March 15, and is hiker #930. I finally met a hiker who started after I did!! (and has a higher number, I’m #838). Haha, it only took 40 days. I probably won’t see him again, since he did 35 miles today to get here. It’s a nice cool night in the shelter, perfect for sleeping!

Friday April 19, 0mi/0km

Stanimal’s hostel (786.7)

Because of the incoming weather today (flood warnings, tornado watch), it was time for another zero day! There were 8 other hikers here doing the same thing, and Bob, Lightfoot, Cedar and I got a ride into the nearby town of Lexington to entertain ourselves for the day! It was a neat old city, lots of good food, and fancy old historical buildings.

As I discovered back on day 26 of my Te Araroa hike, the first stop in town should be at the cheese shop.

Cedar bought some tasty hard cheese.

And then, the Gelato shop…

After Gelato, there was talk of an ice cream shop, but it was raining hard and we just went next door to the hiking outfitter. We didn’t really need anything, but it was fun to browse. I did buy some Permethrin spray (to repel and kill ticks) for my shoes, shorts, and sit pad.

We also explored a local vegetarian restaurant, a brewery, and the ABC store for margarita ingredients.

Back at the hostel, we had margaritas, and I of course made a cake, and ice cream.

Calorie-loading complete, it’s time to get back on trail tomorrow!

Thursday April 18, 14.8mi/23.8km

Thunder Hill shelter (771.9) to Route 501/Glasgow (786.7) (VA)

Spring is here! The sun came up early and shone into the shelter, waking us up before 7am. I got on trail at 8am, and was surprised to see a scattered thunderstorm approaching.

It cleared after an hour, and it was hot and sunny for the rest of the day. There were more signs of spring along the way.

This wilderness has a funny name.

And this view was from the top of a knob, whose name can’t be put into print. Ha!

After the aforementioned knob, the trail descended 2000ft/600m to James River.

The James River, kinda visible through the trees.

I stopped and took a lunch break at a shelter, and met a nice family who plans to do the AT someday after their son is older.

Jodie, Russell, and Henry Joe, I wish you the best on your future hike!

The last 2 miles to town was a pleasant riverside walk along the James River.

And the James River footbridge is the longest footbridge on the entire AT.

Coincidentally, it’s also named after a guy whose surname is Foot!

I got to the highway at 1pm, and hitched a ride within 5 minutes, and went straight to the only restaurant in town, Scott’s Pizza. Based on the sign on the front door, this is definitely a hiker town!

And there was a random dinosaur across the street from the restaurant.

It’s a nice small town, and I walked the 5 minutes to the hostel. The weather forecast is for 2in/5cm of rain tomorrow, with heavy thunderstorms and wind, so I will take a zero day.

Wednesday April 17, 23.6mi/38.0km

Bobblets Gap shelter (748.3) to Thunder Hill shelter (771.9) (VA)

After the best night of sleep I’ve ever had in a shelter, I ate some breakfast bars and got moving. The hike back to the AT was slow and uphill. The sun was already shining up on the ridge, and the temperature hit 70F/21C quickly.

The trail criss-crossed with the Blue Ridge Parkway again a few times, with some great views.

The whole morning was hiking on a ridge with the occasional view thru the trees.

And then… down, down, downhill to Jennings creek and a trailhead parking area. It also had a swimming hole in the creek!

It looked familiar, and I realized I had been here a couple of times before, the most recent in 2012 when I hiked this section of the AT with my dad.

Then I also remembered the big climb after the creek. 3100ft/950m of uphill, here we go!

It was a nice smooth and switchbacked trail, and despite the heat I made good time. I took a long break at the huge (20-bunk) Bryant Ridge shelter.

After all afternoon of climbing, I reached the top of Apple orchard mountain at 5pm.

What a cool spot! It even has an FAA radar station, for aircraft navigation. There was only one more mile to the shelter, but the trail had more fun surprises.

A wilderness! And…

The Guillotine, a wedged rock that the trail passes under. Cool!

I arrived to the shelter at 6pm, Bob was already there, and two other section hikers were camped nearby. It’s nice to be camped up at high elevation again, nice and cool!

Tuesday April 16, 18.6mi/29.9km

Route 220/Daleville (729.7) to Bobblets Gap shelter (748.3) (VA)

I slept so well last night, and I could’ve slept forever, but there was a free breakfast downstairs, with waffles! After breakfast, I stopped by the thrift store to get a new pair of shorts, and finally hit the trail at 11:30am. It was another nice spring day.

We climbed up 1000ft/300m, and took a break at a shelter for 2nd lunch. They give these things weird names.

I saw only one other hiker all afternoon, when he stopped for a break at another shelter. Bob and I kept going, and soon came upon the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The trail parallels this scenic tourist road for the next 100 miles or so. The last hour of the day really seemed to go slowly, and we got to the shelter at 6:30pm. Unfortunately, it was another one of those “off trail” shelters which requires extra mileage.

There was one other hiker already at the shelter, a section hiker named Mickey from Germany. The three of us had dinner, or second dinner. The temperature turned cold quickly, so I retreated to my sleeping bag for the night.