Thursday April 11, 0mi/0km

Hiker Haven Hostel (637.0)

My first real zero day! My original plan was to take a zero in the next town (Daleville VA), but this hostel was so nice, and I had a bunch of town chores to do.

Here are some photos of the hostel setup:

I spent the morning doing chores. I asked the hostel for a ride to the library, and when I explained why, they just let me borrow their laptop. So nice! So I sat at a table in the kitchen all morning, working on… my taxes! It would’ve only taken 30 minutes, but I needed to login to various accounts to get a the information. I only login to most of these once a year, so I had to make a few calls to various customer service departments. Ugh.

With taxes done, I walked to the grocery store (Food Lion… bleh) to do my resupply for the next 4 days of hiking. Now when people ask, I can tell them I’ve seen both snakes and bears on the AT, haha!

I also made trips to the post office, barber, and an accidental trip to pizza hut. I was walking by there, and a nice young couple wanted to talk to me about hiking and the AT, and offered to buy me a pizza for 20-30 minutes of my time. Sure!

I brought the leftover pizza back to the hostel, and Bob and Turbo were there! They were watching a movie, and I joined in.

Then, there was some more calorie loading after the pizza…

That was my second pint of B&J’s in as many days. A pretty solid zero day!

Wednesday April 10, 24.7mi/39.8km

Campsite by Dismal Creek (612.3) to Route 100/Pearisburg (637.0)

I always automatically get up early on a town day, it’s kinda like an exciting holiday. But, with food! Which probably explains why Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday…

Anyway, so I was hiking by 7:15am, and it was a cold-ish morning, which was perfect for the small climb up to the ridge.

It was a pretty uneventful morning, and I saw no other hikers. I imagine if I had turned off to go to the Woods Hole Hostel, I would’ve met a few hikers. It’s a very popular place, with a communal arrangement toward meals and lodging.

But, as it was only 11am, I continued on, and stopped for lunch an hour later at Doc’s Knob shelter. It had the biggest deck I’ve ever seen on a shelter.

It was a beautiful 65F/18C sunny day, so I lounged on the deck for an hour. The afternoon hiking was pleasant and easy ridge walking.

It was around 2pm when I met my first hiker for the day. His name was Trigger, and he was doing this section SOBO. I was so excited to see another human, I had to get his photo!

Toward the end of the day, just before the long descent into town, there are a couple of viewpoints. The first one looking east, over the Pearis valley:

And another viewpoint called Angels Rest, looking to the west, over the New River valley:

After the long descent, the woods were noticeably greener.

And with waterfalls!

I got to the trailhead at 4:30pm, and called the local hostel for a ride.

A shuttle from Hiker Haven picked me up, and I was given a nice tour of the hostel. It’s a pretty new place, and has a lot of nice amenities for only $25. After I settled into the hostel and got a shower, it was margarita time.

A perfect finish to a great day!

Tuesday April 9, 27.5mi/44.3km

Route 615/Suiter Road (584.8) to campsite by Dismal Creek (612.3)

I woke up to the sound of water falling on my tent, but it was just the trees dripping from the dense fog. It was a warm morning and it was nice to hike in a t-shirt and shorts.

Did I make it to the final level of the game? Trail boss!

This burn section had a haunted feel to it with the fog.

I saw no other hikers all morning. I stopped at the Brushy Mountain outpost, a general store and grill. The cheeseburger on Texas toast was a good second breakfast.

The trail crossed another major freeway, interstate 77. Looks pretty empty…

At the trailhead parking areas, there are often trash cans. This one had an unusual sign. I’ve never seen this before, I suspect this is only a problem in rural Virginia?!

In the afternoon, I saw one hiker with her dog (section hiker, from the looks of her gear), and several more danger noodles.

It was a nice sunny afternoon, and easy walking. Most of the time there were no views, and I passed the time listening to podcasts. Here are the few views I had:

A couple of miles before camp, I crossed the first suspension bridge on the AT. Bounce time!

I got to my targeted camp spot at 6:30pm, and I was the only one there. At least the nearby creek will be pleasant background noise for sleeping.

Monday April 8, 24.5mi/39.4km

Knot Maul shelter (560.3) to Route 615/Suiter Road (584.8)

I woke up at 7am, and Turkish was already gone. Impressive! I packed up and Noodle and Blue were waking up. They said they usually leave camp at 9am, and they were planning a couple less miles than me, so I said goodbye.The day started off with a big 1600ft/500m climb up to Chestnut Ridge, fortunately it was early morning and still cool weather. There wasn’t much to see until I got up on the ridge.

And looking back south, to the spot the previous photo was taken:

I got phone signal, and noticed there was a severe thunderstorm watch starting in 2 hours. I hurried for the next 3 miles of open ridge, to make sure I was far away from the exposed section by 1pm.I got to a shelter at 11:30am, and stopped for lunch.

The view to the west side of the trail is fascinating. It looks down on Burke’s Garden, a geological oddity. It’s not a crater, but a limestone sinkhole that is 4 miles across.

Inside the shelter had some interesting things to look at too…

Graffiti is usually annoying, but I do love a good reference to The Office.I left the shelter by 12:15pm, and was down in the trees 5 minutes later. Safe!

The rest of the afternoon was uneventful ridge walking with no real views. I used my umbrella for an hour, and took a break at the next shelter, where I met Flatlander. Turkish was there too. We talked for a bit, mostly about the three topics hikers talk about most – food, bodily functions, and trail mileage. I pushed on another 5 miles in dry weather, and enjoyed a nice trail on an old roadbed. This tree was confusing… I guess it had fallen over, then sprouted more trees?

I made it to my camp spot next to Laurel creek by 5:30pm.

I quickly set up before the rain came back, and had the space to myself. The forecast is for scattered thunderstorms overnight, then nice tomorrow!

Sunday April 7, 26.3mi/42.3km

Partnership shelter (534.0) to Knot Maul shelter (560.3) (VA)

I woke up later than usual, since the loft of the shelter stays dark. I packed up and said goodbye to Michele while we ate breakfast burritos… of salmon!

Bob and I started up the first hill, and Turbo (of course) caught up soon after. It was a pleasant warm morning, with just one big climb all morning.

We slowly descended down to 2500ft/760m, and I could see that spring is starting to happen at these lower elevations!

We got to the “town” of Atkins at lunchtime, really it was just a diner and a couple of gas stations by the interstate.

Bob and I went into the Diner, called M&M Country Barn restaurant. Some of the other hikers went to the Mexican takeout restaurant in the gas station. Both seemed like good options! After eating a huge burger, and spending almost 2 hours there, it was time to hike again.

The trail roughly parallels the interstate 81 freeway for the next 700 miles….I’ll be seeing it a few more times. About an hour after lunch, I got a surprise. A Danger noodle! He moved quickly out of the way.

And shortly after the snake sighting, I hit the 1/4-way mark of the AT. The distance changes slightly each year, so the sign is approximate. 550 miles done!

The rest of the afternoon was hiking in mostly farmlands, which sadly had no cows. But plenty of views!

Bob and Turbo stopped at a hostel, and I kept going another 2miles to a shelter. I arrived at 6:30pm, and met Blue, Noodle, and Turkish. They were really entertaining to talk to, and we stayed up and had a small campfire. I hope I run into them again. Tomorrow’s forecast is for afternoon thunderstorms, so I will try to get an early morning start!

Saturday April 6, 22.3mi/35.9km

Route 603 (511.7) to Partnership shelter (534.0) (VA)

Sleeping indoors is fun, you can wake up after the sunrise! The Sufi lodge was a quiet relaxing hostel, and Suzanne and James are wonderful hosts – they even made us a hot breakfast! After we finished our eggs, bacon, toast, and tea, Michele patched my damaged food bag.

Good as new! Take that, mice.

I was back on trail at 9am, and for the first time on this trail, I was wearing shorts! It started at 60F/16C, and warmed up to 72F/22C in the sun. I hiked an hour, and stopped at the first shelter for a snack break. I met Little One & Walden, who had hiked the AT in 2017, and were out hiking a 4-day section. They were fun to talk to, and they were thinking about hiking the Te Araroa next year, I hope I convinced them further.

I left the shelter and had a nice gradual downhill walk for a few miles. The trail passed right under Comers Creek Falls, a refreshing sight on a warm day.

The trail was mostly the same terrain today, gradual descents and climbs, on tread cut into the hillside.

At the next road crossing, there was some unattended trail magic! Someone hid sodas inside the trail register box, where hikers sign in/out of each forest section. Sweet!

Some of these wilderness areas have ridiculous names.

There was a short one mile section where the trail traversed a cow pasture. But sadly, no cows. 🙁

It might be too early for cows, but spring is coming. Flowers are blooming!

At the next road crossing, there was more trail magic! Jerry is with the local church, and he was out today in his cool vehicle, helping out hikers! He said there were 10 other hikers before me, so I’m not alone out here. I think we are all just traveling the same pace, so we don’t see each other.I hiked on a couple more hours, and arrived to Partnership shelter at 5:30pm. Bob, Bill, and Turbo were there, along with some other thru’s I hadn’t met yet. And Michele showed up an hour later, after her day if hiking up Mt Rogers and Greyson Highlands. Cool! It was great to see her (and Lola, dog) one more time before they head west to the PCT.It was a warm evening, so we were able to hang out and socialize, which was great. We went to bed early, to start early tomorrow morning, and make it to a brunch place!

Friday April 5, 26.1mi/42.0km (25.1 AT + 1.0mi side trail to Mt Rogers)

Lost Mountain shelter (486.6) to Route 603 (511.7) (VA)

It rained steadily all night, and was still raining when I woke up in the shelter. I laid there for awhile avoiding the rain, but finally left at 9am, along with the rest of the group.

It was a rainy, foggy morning, and I used my umbrella all morning.

When the trail left the protection of the trees, it was really windy, and the umbrella went away. Bob and Turbo were just ahead.

After a big climb, there was a side trail to Mt Rogers (5728ft/1746m), the highest point in Virginia. So of course I had to climb it.

It was an easy half mile side trail, and I was back on the AT within 25 minutes. I caught up to Bob and Turbo, taking a lunch break at the next shelter. And just after lunch, we hit the 500mile mark!

The Greyson highlands are supposed to be known for amazing views and the wild ponies. There are the only views and ponies that I saw….

While I was on the ridge, I got a phone signal, and my friend Michele is passing thru Virginia, and we would try to meet up tonight! The next road crossing was still 3 hours of hiking away, and it was 3:30pm. So, onward!

I stopped and made dinner at Old Orchard shelter, then continued on another 2 miles to the road crossing. I arrived just after 8pm, just before sunset! Michele arrived a few minutes later (no photos, it was too dark), and we went to a nearby hostel, Sufi Lodge.

What a great surprise, and I was rescued from the rain. 🙂

Thursday April 4, 15.6mi/25.1km

Damascus (471.0) to Lost Mountain shelter (486.6) (VA)

I slept in until 7:30am, the beds and room was so comfortable and quiet. I take a quick trip to the post office to mail ahead my extra sleeping bag, and then Bob and I hit the Damascus Diner. I eat way too much biscuits and gravy, grits and eggs. The waitress, Megan, comes by to chat at the end of the meal, and she is from Amsterdam NY, where I have family too!

We talk for a bit, and I think I made her a little homesick, especially for Battisti’s pizzeria.Bob and I leave town at noon, and for the first time on this trail, I’m too hot. It’s 70F/21C, and we have to climb 2000ft. The trail is very well constructed in this section and easy to follow.

The AT follows the Virginia Creeper trail, a 35-mile bike trail that was converted from an old railroad line. Occasionally I could see that trail down below.

There were a couple more small PUDs (pointless ups and downs), and then we rejoined the Creeper trail.

Tunnel of rhododendrons!

The AT and VCT are the same trail for almost a mile, and it had some impressive huge bridges.

Bob and I arrived at the shelter at 5:30pm, and setup inside the shelter knowing it will rain tonight. Three other hikers, Sovereign, Turbo, and Xeilo are already there.

The shelters in Virginia have privies again! (Tennessee shelters did not). And someone has written the complete text of The Lorax on the wall. Best toilet ever, haha. Tomorrow might be a short day too, depending on when the rain stops in the morning…

Wednesday April 3, 18.9mi/30.4km

Double Spring Shelter TN (452.1) to Damascus VA (471.0)

It was a cold 35F/2C morning, but we got up and on trail by 7:45am. It’s a town day! The trail was an easy cruise all morning, and the day warmed up fast with the strong sun.

Bob and I stopped for a quick lunch at the last shelter in Tennessee, then went another couple of miles to the border. We are in Virginia!

There was some brief celebration with music (“Meet Virginia” of course), and many other cheesy photos that didn’t make the cut.

After another hour of easy downhill trail, we arrived in Damascus, the first trail town in Virginia!

As my TA (Te Araroa) trail family knows, I can’t resist a playground. So many things to climb!

And Bob (that’s his trail name) found an old train.

We walked through town, and went to the Hikers Inn. Lee and Paul are the owners and wonderful hosts! We enjoyed hot showers, laundry, and wifi, and then went to the 7-Trails Restaurant for a 2nd lunch.

We did a resupply at Dollar General (ugh), and we checked out the local outfitter shop and bought some new fuel canisters. Its been cold on this trail, so this canister (220g/8oz) only lasted 470 miles/23 days.

Tomorrow, more Virginia and the Greyson highlands!

Tuesday April 2, 23.7mi/38.1km

Boots Off Hostel TN (428.4) to Double Spring Shelter TN (452.1)

Since it was another frigid 25F/-4C morning, I slept in for a later, and hopefully warmer, start to the day.The hostel was very nice, and even served a free continental breakfast. There were two other hikers there too, Sisqo and Hodag. I finally left at 9am, and enjoyed a walk along Watauga Lake for the first hour.

The lake ends at a dam, which the AT walks over at the northern side.

Bob caught up to me along the lake, and took off ahead. We talked for awhile during the climb after the lake, and pretty soon we were on top of the ridge that we would be following all day. The day had warmed up nicely, so lunch break was long and relaxed. The rest of the afternoon was mostly along the ridge and not very noteworthy. The trail was the least maintained section I’ve seen on the AT yet.

At the end of the day, we crossed a paved road, and the trail quality improved.

There were even nice bridges for the damp sections of trail.

And the first mile after the road was designated handicap accessible!

We arrived to the shelter at 6:30pm, and Bob and I are the only ones there! We were both surprised to find an empty shelter. I usually prefer to camp outside in my tent to avoid the snoring masses, but slept inside since it’s just two of us. We even had a nice campfire!

Early to bed, it’s a town day tomorrow!