Saturday June 7, 24.2mi/39.0km

Big Smoky Valley (761.4/5490ft) to Saddle near Pete’s Cabin (785.6/8590ft) (NV)

I left camp at 6:30 and was excited that I only had 6 more miles until water!

There hasn’t been any water since I left Tonopah, so I’ve been rationing my water for the 44 mile waterless stretch. I actually came across some water a mile earlier than expected, so that was a nice surprise.

I walked by some ranches which had a few friendly horses, who were not at all shy about wanting their faces itched.

When I got to the designated spot to get water, the green gate was padlocked shut with a few no trespassing signs. But there was a nearby old stone hut, and I could get to the creek from behind that building.

I was no longer in the big valley, and was now heading up a narrowing canyon.

It was exciting to enter a national forest again, usually that means more trails and less roadwalking.

I passed by some old buildings, most of which were abandoned but one of them was inhabited and the guy came down and asked what I was hiking. He was really curious for details and invited me up for cold lemonade and fruit.

After a quick visit, I continued a couple of miles on a hot dirt road.

Fortunately that only lasted 2 miles and then I was in the Peavine campground, which was nice and shady and peaceful with the flowing creek.

It was also home to plenty of wildlife!

I decided to stop and have an early lunch, it was such a nice spot.

I was there for over an hour and then I noticed that usual afternoon clouds had arrived, so I decided it was a good time to continue heading up the road.

The road crisscrossed Peavine Creek a dozen times, and many of those crossings I walked right through it and got wet feet. As I slowly ascended, I noticed the junipers and pinion pines had returned.

And then the dirt road ended and I was entering the Arc Dome wilderness, on an actual hiking trail!

The guidebook describes this as a nice trail, which is pure fiction. It was easy enough to follow but was a little brushy.

When the trail ventured near the creek or crossed it, the fast-growing willows really crowded the trail and made it hard to see. At one point I stumbled upon an entire cow skeleton, which was shocking.

And a minute later I came across its hide as well. Kinda creepy.

As I continued to ascend eventually the little creek dried up, and the trail was now passing through sagebrush. It was easier to follow the trail but very scratchy.

I had planned to camp at the site of Pete’s cabin, but when I got there it was overgrown and not really suitable for camping. So I continued a few more minutes towards the pass, which I was sure would have a flat spot for my tent. Fortunately, I found a little spot amongst these short little trees just before the pass, even better!

Hopefully it doesn’t get too cold tonight, I’m camped up at 8,600 ft elevation.